A Little Missouri 66 in October

Friday - Buying a New RV

Our New KZ Sportsman 200

If you're a reader of our Newsletter or this blog, you know that we borrowed a camper last month and took it to Tennessee to see if it was a feasible lifestyle for us.  After really enjoying the experience, we asked our Newsletter readers to chime in on their experiences and recommendations and received some great feedback.  Like making sure to think through the traffic flow inside the RV based on your typical occupancy. How's it work with 2 dogs?  Getting one with a larger fridge that runs on both propane and electric. Checking for any water damage, are the tires good, etc.  Lots of great advice that we took into consideration on our search.

With our towing capacity at 3500 pounds, we were limited in our choices for the size of camper we required. We both knew that one of us would wind up hurt in less than a 19 foot trailer (probably me).  Having separate offices at home, in separate buildings, has made us a bit spoiled in that aspect. In short, what we found out is that until about 2010, most travel trailers 20 feet were over 3500 pounds, but gas prices seemed to have forced the industry to develop more light weight, larger trailers for fuel economy. That meant that everything we found 'used' that we liked was over our limit, while everything used within our limit was too small.

That ultimately led us to the KZ Sportsmen.  After looking at several floor plans, what was perfect for our needs was the Sportsmen Classic 200.  We never intended to buy a new camper as we are big believers in buying any vehicle used.  However, the price on these made it very appealing, especially when many of the used we had looked at were only a couple thousand cheaper.  So after many searches and phone calls, we found our's waiting for us in Cape Girardeau at Youngblood's Capetown RV. That's six hours away from Warsaw, but we thought why not make it another adventure and spend some quality time coming home along Missouri Route 66.   (This is obviously our first experience at buying a camper, so won't give Youngblood's nor the Sportsmen a complete review other than to say the staff was friendly, they worked with us a little on price, went over everything in the camper, and even let our dogs come in for the paper work signing.  No complaints).

Saturday - Towing Our New Mobile Motel Home in Missouri Color

Missouri in October is very colorful (just outside of Cape Girardeau)

We stayed in Cape Girardeau at Cape Camping RV Park.  Very clean park, nice pull through's to make it easy on me that first night, and level.  But this is what Kathy refers to as RV Parking lots.  Row after row, close together and NO trees. Close together not really that big of a deal, but the lack of shade and the feeling of being in a parking lot would exclude this place as a long term stay for us.  Also, I thought it was odd to have a speed bump coming in the park, which led us to our first indication that we need to secure the cabinets in the camper better.

Meramac Barn east of  Stanton, Missouri

We wasted no time getting on the road Saturday morning, with our ultimate destination being Cuba Missouri, which just happened to be having their annual Cuba Fest.  So we head up I-55 to Festus, then cut across to St. Clair to catch the Mother Road. Beautiful colors this time of year with Fall in full swing, we felt it was the perfect time for Route 66, which meandors along the frontage road of I-44. St. Clair was established in 1849 as "Travelers Repose" but changed to its current name in 1855.  With small town charm and attractions, make time to stop here if you can. (Read more about this stretch of 66 HERE)

Continuing west we go through a favorite for 66'ers, Stanton.  Close to Meramac Caverns, there are some interesting attractions beyond the cave here, including the Jesse James Museum.  If your into 66 history like us, you also want to get a pic of the now closed Antique Toy Museum which attracted many over the years before being closed down in 2009.  (More about Stanton HERE)

Sullivan is also nearby, founded in the mid 1850's.  With a revitalized historic downtown and it's close proximity to Meramac State Park, it's another great place to relax along your Route 66 journey before continuing west to Bourbon, thought to be the only the only town in the U.S. named after Bourbon Whiskey, an apparent result of Irish immigrants who helped build the railroad.  (More on Sullivan and Bourbon HERE)

Heading west, we're getting into Missouri Vineyard country, with several Wine Vineyards along our path to Cuba.  I never really thought of Missouri as a place for Wine making, but there are a lot of quality ones in this part of the country.  Established in 1857, Cuba got it's name from the island country and was known for its apple orchards and barrel making. Though the apple production declined in the 1930's, barrel making continues to this day.  It was also in the 1930's that the town picked up and moved the original town site next to the railroad tracks to be closer to the new Route 66. With that move, several services and tourist stops sprang up, including the now historic Wagon Wheel Motel. Starting as the Wagon Wheel Cabins in 1935, this motel is now on the National Register of Historic Places and continues to serve travelers today. Purchased in 2009 by Connie Echols, the motel has been completely restored and feature some of the most unique original buildings left on the Route today.

Of course we had to stop in at the annual Route 66 Cuba Fest. Traditionally the third weekend in October, this event is a big draw for Mother Road fans, and featured trolley tours and plenty of 66 history and fun.  Make plans to attend in 2013 if you can.  You can find out more via the Cuba Mural City website and of course the Chamber of Commerce.  And be sure to read our story on Cuba (soon to be updated) HERE.

Still getting accustomed to hauling an RV, we decided it best to camp here for a night or two and see the sites without camper in tow.  We found a great RV park called the Lady Bug right outside of town.  Plenty of trees and a layout that doesn't make you feel your in a parking lot, this stop gets high marks from us.  Good internet, full hookups and a great price with friendly owners!  Couldn't recommend the Lady Bug RV Park and Campground enough.  The only problem, as of this writing, was the fact that Kathy's smartphone didn't get 3 or 4G service here, but the wireless internet provided was plenty adequate during the times of day we needed it most (early morning).

Sunday - Day Tripping down forgotten parts of the Mother Road

Worlds Largest Rocking
Chair

We started Sunday morning by having breakfast with our 66 friends Jim Hinckley and Rich Henry. Mr. Hinckley is a co-author with Kathy on "Greetings from Route 66", and has written several other books, including "Ghost Towns of Route 66", "Ghost Towns of the Southwest" and others. His latest endeavor just debuted and is sure to be a 66 Best Seller. "The Route 66 Encyclopedia" debuted at Cuba Fest and goes on sale November 1. Be watching Legend's General Store as we make it available soon. Hinckley came into Cuba all the way from Arizona, while Rich Henry came in from Staunton Illinois.  Henry runs the fun Route 66 must see attraction "Henry's Rabbit Ranch" and it was great to catch up with both of them along with Jim's wife Judy.

Feeling unencumbered with our RV back at the park, we left breakfast heading west on Old 66 to our first photo stop at the Fanning Route 66 Outpost, home to the Guiness Certified Worlds Largest Rocking Chair, which stands just over 42 feet tall and 20 feet wide.  From there it's down the road to Rosati, Little Italy in Central Missouri. This is most definitely wine country and Rosati has an intriguing history dating back to the 1840's.  Read more about this historic town HERE.

John's Modern Cabins

From Rosati we stayed on the Mother Road, going through St. James, and Rolla, each with plenty of history, but being the Ghost Town type geeks we are, our primary focus of the day was really an area just west of there off exit 176 and down Arlington Outer Road.  This section of Route 66 that was bypassed by I-44 in 1957, was bypassed even more when I-44 was again adjusted further north more recently. It's also the place you'll find the long abandoned John's Modern Cabin's, next to the still active and Route 66 Icon Vernelle's Motel. John's Modern Cabin's is on private property, but the owner allows you to walk around "at your own risk".  Nothing being done to preserve, these cabins that once served weary travelers are not long from being completely gone, so we were glad we made the trek to capture what's left in photos.

1860's Hotel still stands in Arlington

We had an extra treat just a bit further down this outer road when we reached the Ghost Town of Arlington. Founded in 1867, this was a popular resort town in the early days of Route 66, with a hotel that dates back to the original founding.  After Route 66 was widened then later bypassed the town it went into decline and today is privately owned.  We will be writing much more about Arlington soon as there is great history being restored here and new owners are making good use of the existing homes and historic hotel.

Stony Dell Resort

Still more to see in this area, we had to backtrack to the Interstate and venture off exit 172 to Jerome, just past the abandoned Stony Dell Resort.  Much like John's Modern Cabins, this once popular stop stands as a reminder of more leisurely travel days along Route 66.  Just before Stony Dell you will see the Trail of Tears Memorial, built by Larry Bagget.  The memorial was once a major attraction on the Route, but was abandoned after Baggets death in 2003 and is now closed off.

We wrapped up our day continuing on Old Route 66, through Devils Elbow and Hookers Cut before making our way back to the interstate and back to our camp ground outside of Cuba. It was a great day for history that you can see in our Facebook photo album "Fall In Missouri" HERE.

Ps. After spending quality time in our KZ Sportsmen 200, we both feel very much at home in it.  We believe this is going to fit our travel lifestyle well.

Why did the Turkey Cross the Road?  To see where Chicken went. 

Jefferson City - Wild West History in Our Own Back Yard

Missouri State Capital Building in Jefferson City

Just about 80 some odd miles away from Legend's home base of Warsaw is the Missouri Capital, Jefferson City.   Kathy and I decided for our sixth wedding anniversary to take an overnight trip there and see some history.  We weren't disappointed. 

Looking toward the Capital from a
Lewis and Clark  marker

Right on the Missouri River, this city wasn't the first capital of Missouri.  St. Louis and then St. Charles served as Missouri Territory capitals first, but then in 1821 territory leaders chose Jefferson City.  The city's name wasn't always Jefferson City either.  It started as Lohman's Landing, and was nothing more than a trading post.  After considering naming it Missouriopolis, the legislature changed it's mind and named it after Thomas Jefferson instead.  They met for the first time in the new capital in 1826, but it wasn't until 1839 that Jefferson City was incorporated.

Lohman Building now a Museum

We toured the downtown area and enjoyed the sites of the capital building and it's views of the river.  We also took in the Lohman Building, built in 1839 by James A. Crump. It served as a grocery store, warehouse, tavern and telegraph office and hotel for the growing city, and is still open today as a museum.

Lincoln University Of Missouri

Jefferson City is also home to Lincoln University. Founded as the Lincoln Institute in 1866 by members of the 62nd and 65th United States Colored Infantry, it's the oldest African American college west of the Mississippi River and has a huge campass.  It changed it's name to Lincoln University of Missouri in 1921, and in 1954 opened its doors to applicants of all races.

Front of what's left of
Missouri State Penitentiary

Of course, our trip would not be complete without a tour of the Missouri State Penitentiary. Also known as "The Walls", it operated from 1836 to 2004, and was the oldest operating penal facility west of the Mississippi River prior to it's closing.  We would highly recommend one of  the tours they give, but you must book in advance.  As of  this writing they are raising funds to maintain the old buildings as they have deteriorated quite a bit since the guards shut the doors 8 years ago.

Gas Chamber at Mo
State Penitentiary

What was really neat about our tour is that the guides were actual guards at the prison.  The history is fascinating, and includes some famous "residents".  Kate Richards O'Hare was brought there in 1919 to serve 5 years for an anti-war speech in North Dakota. So much for free speech at the time.  Her sentence was commuted the next year by President Woodrow Wilson, and she was later given a full pardon by President Calvin Coolidge.  Other famous inmates include Pretty Boy Floyd in 1925; brutal child murderers Carl Austin Hall and Bonnie Heady in the mid 1950's when they were sentenced to death by the Federal Government; World Heavyweight Champion Sonny Liston learned to Box there during his time there beginning in 1950; and Assassin James Earl Ray escaped from the prison in 1967 just months before killing Martin Luther King, Jr.

Dungeon in one of the
buildings at the prison

The guide told us of the hardships suffered by the inmates, especially back in the 1800's.  Horrible conditions that would surely dissuade criminal activity if still in existence today.  Six to eight prisoners stacked on top each other in small cells, and a dark and lonely dungeon where one inmate spent 18 years of his life.  Many stories to tell, so you can bet we'll be adding the history of this place to Legends Of America in the weeks to come.

Jefferson City has quite a bit more history to explore,  and would be worth your time for a visit.

To North Dakota - Are we out of Missouri Yet?

Kathy lives a life precariously balanced by Mother Nature.  Pretty sure I've written about this before, as it's a familiar pattern. When it's cold, she stays indoors.  When it's really hot, she stays indoors. And, since we have the luxury of running our business from home, this means there are times that Kathy literally doesn't leave the house for days, sometimes weeks. I, on the other hand, have an office over 50 feet from the house, a shipping center over 100 feet away, and the occasional responsibility to run to the grocery store. Meanwhile, Kathy hunkers down during these weather extremes and sits for hours in her office writing, playing with photos and generally getting sick of herself.

This was never more evident than this past Summer, when we experienced rainy day after rainy day, followed immediately by a long period of extreme heat, followed again by more rain.  Which means that Kathy's health (ie, my physical well being) were at a tipping point. So, it was no surprise when Kathy walked out of her office one night recently and proclaimed "Pack your boots, were going to North Dakota."

Gotta admit, I was a little surprised at her choice considering the time of year, however we've needed to head north for a while, and the look in her eye told me "just go with it."  Besides, we love our jobs, especially when it comes to travel. There's the obvious reasons; new adventures in history, ghost towns, scenic byways, you know...America the Beautiful.  But, for me, there's also another twist...choices in dining.  I know, I know, you're probably saying to yourself that I must be a food hound, but, really I'm not.  It's just that after years of living in the city and traveling the world in a corporate job, I became accustomed to having a wide variety of dining choices just about every day.  Though the benefits of relocating our business to Warsaw, Missouri far outweigh any savory delight, our small town of about 2,000 doesn't have those mouthwatering cheddar bay biscuits that magically appear on my plate at Red Lobster.

mmmm...buttery goodness

Mmmmm... Red Lobster, yep that's what we're doing, we're going to hit a Red Lobster on the way to North Dakota.  Kathy teased me with the idea of stopping in Kansas City on our first day of travel for one nice "splurge," but then after that we would be frugal and keep it down to a minimum. We packed up all kinds of snacks and sandwich stuff to save money, but, I couldn't let the trip go by without at least one of our favorite eateries in the mix. She teased and she teased, reminding me for several days before we left that I was getting closer and closer to my melt in your mouth cheddar bay biscuits.

Kathy and I have a great travel relationship.  She hates driving and I'm a backseat driver.  I hate navigating and like to be told when to turn. It works out pretty well... I'm happy not to have to say "Don't stop in the middle of the road!" and "Holy crap, are you close enough to the edge!!?" And Kathy's happy not to have to ask "Are you sure you know where we are?" and "Really, you think this is a road?"  We've gotten to the point where we no longer question (not much anyway) our given duties. I drive, she navigates. And, if there is any question, the majority rule applies. (ie, she owns 51% of the business).  So, you can probably imagine the look on my face when we weren't even 20 miles out of Warsaw Saturday and suddenly Kathy proclaims "Let's skip Kansas City and keep going north."   "But, but, but, garlic buttery goodness, scallops, salad, they even take your debit card at the table.."

Chillicothe, Mo

As I pass the turn to Kansas City in Sedalia, I resigned myself that this day would be tuna salad from a packet. So, north we continued on Highway 65, through Marshall up to Chillicothe, and Lock Springs, an almost ghost town.

Historic Clear Creek, MO Church

Beyond Lock Springs, we make a stop at the historic Clear Creek Church and Cemetery for a little picnic. As I bite into my Tuna Salad sandwich, I soaked in the beauty of the surrounding rolling corn fields and pondered on the life of the Amish that seem to dominate the region. Living simple lives in a complex world, they reside pretty much the same as they did when first settling the area in the mid to late 1800's -- still driving their horse and buggy carriages, making their goods from scratch, and generally, working much harder than almost any others I know.

We are then headed to Jamesport, the largest Amish community in the State of Missouri. We first stop at an Amish Country store outside of town that is as crowded as a Walmart in Kansas City - no place to park, people everywhere, overload carts blocking isles in the store. Eye-yi-yi, as much as our mouths salivate for some of those fresh-made goodies, we're outa there! When we arrive in Jamesport, we discover our timing has coincided with Heritage Days. Ahhhhh, now we understand the business of the store. We enjoy the sights and festivities at Jamesport before moving on down the road.

Somewhere, MO

Coming out of Jamesport, I could tell that Kathy's wheels were spinning as to which was the best way to go. She hates to backtrack, so she finally decided to let our Tom Tom navigator do the work. This works most of the time, but, I guess in Northwest Missouri, Tom decided some of best routes weren't always paved. I don't really remember the exact names, but for a while I thought we were going to leave dust all the way to Iowa.  Luckily, Tom got us back on pavement soon enough.

Before long, we hit another almost ghost town -- Coffey, Missouri, population a little over 100 folks, then on through another small town called New Hampton, where, there's yet another festival going on. Quite different than Jamesport, as we circle the fairgrounds and what appears to be some kind of greased pig contest. Onwards we go, and by about 3:30 I didn't think we were ever going to get out of Missouri, when finally Kathy announces our stopping point of the day, just a few miles over the line in Iowa in the quaint little town of Clarinda, birth place of Glen Miller.

For now, I'm holding Kathy to her promise that there's a Red Lobster in my near future somewhere along our journey to North Dakota.

Missouri-Illinois-Iowa

Our fall trip this year takes us trailin' a bit on the Santa Fe Trail from Marshall, Missouri to Franklin, before heading to St. Louis and traveling Route 66 to Chicago. From there, we'll head back west and travel back down the Mississippi River a ways through Iowa.



Bothwell Lodge north of Sedalia, Missouri

Our first day, in typical Legends fashion, we make it only 75 miles. This could be a long journey. Our first stop -- just north of Sedalia, Missouri is the Bothwell Lodge State Historic Site. Sitting atop a 120-foot bluff, this castle-like home was constructed between 1897 and 1928 for a prominent Sedalia lawyer, John Homer Bothwell. Bothwell was active in local politics, represented Pettis County for eight years in the Missouri General Assembly, and unsuccessfully ran for governor in 1904. His influence helped to make Sedalia the permanent home for the Missouri State Fair. Built on top three natural caves using native stone, the 12,000 square foot, multi-level lodge has 31 rooms that can be toured today.


Blackwater, Missouri

Next, we're off to the tiny quaint little town of Blackwater, Missouri. Located just three miles north of I-70, exit 89 in Missouri. Alas, I have to say that until very recently I had not heard of Blackwater when I received a phone call from Gerald Cunningham. Originally from Marshall, Missouri, Gerald and his wife, Connie, established the Bucksnort Trading Company in Blackwater four years ago. Then, after he bought my book, Great American Bars and Saloons, he got a hankerin' to establish an old-fashioned saloon right there in Blackwater. 


Bucksnort Saloon, Blackwater, Missouri

Starting on it in early 2010, the Bucksnort Saloon is now open for business. A family friendly saloon, visitors can hear  Robert Ault, one of the best ragtime piano players in the country, delight you with tunes; play Faro, or belly up to the bar for a cream soda or sassparilla on weekends. We had a great time visiting with Gerald and Connie Cunningham, meeting Bob Ault, the piano playing wonder, and visiting with Blackwater's city clerk, painter of the murals in town, and local historian -- Bonnie Rapp. You'll be hearing alot more about this place on our Saloon Museums page soon. 

Dave Alexander; Bonnie Rapp, Gerald Cunningham


Blackwater is a friendly little town with less than 200 souls that has done a very good job of restoring its historic buildings and promoting the village as a travel destination. Numerous historic buildings have been restored including the depot, the Iron Horse Hotel, where you can still get a room and a meal; the old caboose, the telephone building, which now serves as a museum, and many others. Founded in 1887 as a coal and water stop for the Missouri Pacific Railroad, Blackwater has lots of history to share. Be sure to get off the interstate to take the short winding and scenic roads to the historic town which is lined with antique and specialty shops. After a great burger at the Back Roads Grill in Blackwater, we're off again to Arrow Rock, Missouri.



Arrow Rock, Missouri

Situated on a high bluff over the Missouri River, this site has long been a significant landmark for Native Americans, explorers, and early westward travelers. Arrow Rock first appeared on a French map as “pierre a fleche,” literally translated as “rock of arrows” in 1732. In the 1820s, the earliest travelers on what became the Santa Fe Trail crossed the river on the Arrow Rock ferry and filled their water barrels with fresh water at “the Big Spring” before heading west. In 1829, the town of Arrow Rock was founded, which soon boasted a number of prominent people including  Dr. John Sappington of quinine fame; George Caleb Bingham, Missouri's preeminent artist of the mid-1800s; and three future 19th Century Missouri governors. 

By the time the Civil War began, Arrow Rock boasted 1,000 people. Afterwards, the town began a decline as steamboats and river commerce gave way to railroads that bypassed the town. In 1963, the entire town was designated a National Historic Landmark because of its association with the Westward Expansion. Called home to about 75 people today, the village boasts several signficant historic properties including the J.P. Sites Gun Shop, dating back to 1830; the 1834 Huston Tavern, the old courthouse, a town doctor's home, a stone jail and numerous other historic buildings. 


Boonville, Missouri

Then we're off to Boonville, Missouri, our last stop of the day. Another historic city on the Missouri River, Boonville got its start in the early 1800's when Daniel Boone's sons, Nathan and Daniel Morgan, came upon a salt lick in present day Howard County, just across the river. Recognizing the value of salt for pioneers, the Boone brothers settled and opened shop, thus the original Boone’s Lick or Boonslick name. The town was formally platted in 1817 and prospered in the late 1820’s. Throughout the 1820’s and 30’s, it was home to river trade and anoter jumping-off point for the Santa Fe Trail. The development of the railroad and the start of the Civil War dramatically changed Boonville. Because of its prime location on the river, Boonville was sought after by both the Confederates and the Union armies. Boonville saw two Civil War battles. Tday, it is called home to over 8,000 people and features more than 400 historic properties on the National Register.
    

Tomorrow, we head east again. Stay tuned for our daily travels and full articles when we return home..

New Madrid, Missouri and on to Tennessee

Continuing along the Mississippi River, our first stop is New Madrid, Missouri. Founded in 1788 by American frontiersmen and having a long history, the area is best known for being the site of a series of over 1,000 earthquakes in 1811 and 1812, which ranged up to magnitude 8, the most powerful earthquake recorded in the United States and was felt as far away as the East Coast.

The earthquakes began in December, 1811 and continued through February of 1812. The first earthquake caused only slight damage to man-made structures, mainly because the region was so sparsly populated. However, as the earthquakes continued, they began to open deep cracks in the ground, created landslides on the steeper bluffs and hillsides, large areas of land were uplifted, and sizable sink areas were created. The earthquake was so strong, it is said that the Mississippi River ran backwards. The original townsite of New Madrid now lies under the Mississippi River.

The city is also remembered as being the nearby location for the Mississippi River military engagement, the Battle of Island Number Ten, during the Civil War.

The town moved and rebuilt but the Mighty Mississippi steadily encroached upon the town and movement away from the water continued until the early 1890's when the bank was finally stabilized with mats and rock.

Today, this small town of about 3,500 souls is the county seat of New Madrid County. Now, its citizens can only wonder when the great New Madrid Fault will shake their world again. Though earthquakes cannot be predicted, if and when another occurs, it could result in the highest economic losses due to a natural disaster in the United States, spreading damage across Alabama, Arkansas, Illinois, Indiana, Kentucky, Mississippi, Missouri, and Tennessee.


After touring the New Madrid Historical Museum and the Mississippi River Overlook, we begin to head south to Tennessee. I am very excited as I have not spent time in the "Volunteer State." Our first stop is at a Tennessee Welcome Center, where we get our first indication that this trip just might not be what I had in mind. As we pick up maps and brochures, the points us to a monitor that is showing area flooding and places to avoid. It doesn't look bad in the western part of the state, so we continue with our plans and head on down the highway.


Our first stop is the Fort Pillow State Park located in Lauderdale County on the Chickasaw Bluffs overlooking the Mississippi River. Alas, all we will see of the park is the overlook over the river, as the historic is closed due to flooding. Not a good sign for the rest of our journey. Fort Pillow was a Confederat fort built in 1861. Due to its strategic location, the fort was attacked and captured by the Union Army in May, 1862. Later, the site became the location for the terrible Fort Pillow Massacre on April 12, 1864. The Confederate victory resulted in the killing of 229 black and white Union soldiers out of 262 engaged in the battle, after they had already surrendered.

We then make our way back to the highway, heading south. It is beginning to rain very hard and the poor town of Millington, which was hit hard during the "1,000 year flood." It is already showing troublesome signs with parking lots filled with water. Before we get to our Memphis, northbound Highway 51 is under water and by the time we reach our hotel, both sides of the highway are closed to flooding. We were lucky to be ahead of the weather, or so we think at the time. Later that night, the tornado sirens are blaring. In the end, we, along with the rest of the Memphis area are safe. However, the weather in Tennessee changes our plans.

Exploring Our New Home State and a Little More

Mostly settled in for the long term at the "Fort Alexander" compound in Warsaw, Missouri, it is definitely time to explore more of our new home state, with a few short trips into adjoining states. We head south on Highway 65 before scooting southeast toward a little town called Windyville. I had written about this small ghost town several years ago, as well as its many alleged ghosts. Alas, I had to take the story down as my article spawned too many crazy "ghost-hunters," who created vandalism and late night drunken runs through the small community. After having received a petition from every resident in this small burg, I gladly removed it from the website. However, I'll probably put it back up again, this time sans ghosts. A cool little stop and I'm glad to report that the Windyville Store is open once again.

We then venture down to another almost ghost town - Long Lane, which features the smallest ever bank in Missouri. Opened in 1910, it survived the Great Depression and a robbery in the 1930's, but was finally merged with the Bank of Buffalo in 1938. However, the tiny little building still stands. From there, we venture to Mansfield, Missouri and make a stop at the Laura Ingalls Wilder home. The author of the Little House on the Prairie series, she wrote her books here and lived in this home until her death at the age of 90 in 1957.

Next stop -- Big Spring State Park. Tucked in the side of Conococheague Mountain, Big Spring State Park features Big Spring, whose waters form the scenic Shermans Creek. The first white man to report the spring was Pocahontas Randolph, who followed Indian reports of "a spring that roars" in 1803. Because of the rugged terrain, the site remained obscure until purchased by Henry Sawyer in 1913. Roads were not built until the spring became one of the first Missouri State Parks in 1925.

This is the largest spring in the state, and one of the largest in the world. On an average day, some 278 million gallons of water gush forth from subterranean passages, swelling the nearby Current River. Like all Ozark springs, Big Spring is busy dissolving away the walls of its underground passages. One researcher estimated that about 175 tons of calcium carbonate rock are carried away by Big Spring's water every day. Over the course of a year, this is enough rock to produce a cavern 30 feet high by 50 feet wide and one mile in length. The park is located near Van Buren, Missouri.

Heading eastward, I can't resist a detour to a town called Mill Spring, just two miles off the highway. Sure I'll find a mill or a spring, I find neither, but do discover another interesting little almost ghost town. This little place sports only a convenience store and an open post office with no other open businesses; however, it's got a lot of people, all of whom seemed to be outside in their yards or standing in front of the post office visiting. I always wonder what keeps these folks living in these small towns? I also wondered why none of them seemed to have jobs. It was a Wednesday. Hmmm?

We then continue onward to Bollinger Mill and the Bufordville Covered Bridge in tiny little Bufordville. Burfordville Covered Bridge is the oldest remaining covered bridge in Missouri. Joseph Lansmon began its construction in 1858, but it is unclear if the bridge was completed before or after the Civil War. The bridge was not mentioned in St. Louis newspaper accounts of the 1861 burning of Bollinger Mill, located next to the bridge. After the Civil War, the bridge became a vital link, especially to farmers driving wagonloads of grain destined for the mill. The road going through the bridge was part of the toll-road system between Burfordville, Jackson and Cape Girardeau. Today, the Burfordville Covered Bridge is open to pedestrian traffic only. Bollinger Mill also dates back to the Civil War period. Visitors can still observe corn being ground into meal by water power at the massive four-story stone and brick building. This was a great stop and you can just bet our photos will wind up on a postcard.

From here, we're on our way to Cape Girardo, where we will explore the town, along with parts of the Great River Road in Missouri and other area interests. Stay tuned.

Texas to Missouri - Finding Our Way Home

We had a wonderful Thanksgiving with family in Pampa Texas and enjoyed another day of down time before heading out on Friday to make our way home. Most of the time when we come see them, we travel I-40, but knowing we weren't going to make the full way home in one day this trip, we decided to spend some quality time in North Central Oklahoma on roads less traveled.

About 20 miles east of the Texas border, and 30 miles north of I-40 near Cheyenne Oklahoma, we found The Washita Battlefield National Historic Site. This is where Lt. Col. George Custer led the 7th US Calvary on a surprise attack at dawn against a Southern Cheyenne village and the tragic slaughter of it's people. The attack was just a day after their leader, Chief Black Kettle, had returned from peace talks with the US. The Peace Chief was killed in the battle, and to this day the area is a reminder of the tragic clash of cultures that took so many lives.


Moving on down highway 283, we found our way to Highway 33 and boogied across Central Oklahoma with not much else on the agenda for that Friday, other than seeing some of the towns we usually miss traveling more major thoroughfares through the state. Like Kingfisher, situated on the Chisholm Trail and founded during the Federal Governments "Land Rush" in the late 1880's. If you make it there, be sure to check out the Chisholm Trail Museum and Governor Seay Mansion.

Eastward still on Highway 33 we pass through Guthrie, home of Oklahoma's first capitol, and across I-35 until finally meeting up with I-44 just outside of Tulsa. Doing this area quite a bit on our Route 66 travels, we decide to push on without stopping to our final destination of the day, Grand Lakes, where good friends await to put us up for the night [Thanks Susy, Jerry and Lou! We had a blast!!..oh, and Randy too for the great suggestions on places to go in South West Missouri :) ]

Coming Home....

Saturday we said goodbye to our friends and began our trek to far Southwest Missouri, winding around Grand Lake, then onto highway 59 through Copeland, eventually meeting up with highway 90 into Noel Missouri. This is one of the few "Christmas" cities in the US, where people send letters to have postmarked for the holiday, and is in McDonald county, which has a strong history of Civil War skirmishes and later became a very popular vacation destination. There were many resorts throughout the county, and touring Caves as well, including the still active Bluff Dwellers Cave near Noel.

Our bonus on this part of the trip though was finding Truitt's Cave on Highway 59 north of Noel in Lanagan Missouri. This once thriving tourist stop still has a billboard on the highway, but is abandoned after traffic found faster ways through the area on the expanded 71 highway nearby. Almost like a Route 66 relic, it fascinated both of us how something that once housed a Cave restaurant, underground wedding chapel and even a trout reservoir could be pushed aside and forgotten. A little research shows that the closing was actually pretty recent in 2004. What made our stop even more special was finding the grand children of one of the previous owners there, walking the grounds with us, reminiscing about their childhoods and just how "neat" the place really was.

Still pushing north, we made our way to Carthage, site of the Battle of Carthage, another one of the notable fights in the Civil War. Carthage has a beautiful downtown and several mansions along an historic drive through the city. It's also historic for it's role on Route 66, and of course Kathy and I could no longer resist the call of the Mother Road and just had to head east toward Springfield to at least take in a small part of it.

Along the route we made a stops at Spencer and at Paris Springs Junction, home of the Gay Parita Sinclair Station. The original building is gone, but Gary Turner and his son Steve rebuilt the 1930's era icon in 2006, and it's a great stop for all Route 66 enthusiasts. Kathy of course was in hog heaven taking pictures of long forgotten stops along the route all the way to Springfield where we finally ran out of daylight, and headed north on 65 to our home base in Warsaw.

It was a 2,200 mile round trip through Arkansas, Oklahoma and Texas, and a memorable one for sure. Thanks for following along. We have no idea where we will go next, but in the meantime we'll continue to write about the incredible stories of the American West with dreams of the road on our horizon. Be watching the "What's New" page for articles born out of our adventure.

Warsaw to Eureka Springs

One thing about traveling in November is the lack of color in the scenery. You miss the Spring or Fall colors, and the Summer greens. All the leaves have browned weeks ago, leaving the baron branches of thick forests dormant til next year. But despite that, it's still a beautiful drive in southern Missouri and northwest Arkansas.

We headed out south on Highway 65 toward Springfield and found our first detour just outside of there in Ozark. A quick drive through Ozark's historic downtown, then back across 65 several miles to Wilson's Creek National Battlefield. It's the site of the second battle of the Civil War, and so far off the beaten track I imagined a spot in the road with a sign.

We were pleasantly surprised with the nice Visitors Center, exhibits and even a short movie on the history of the area. The Battle of Wilson's Creek, called Oak Hills by Confederates, was fought August 10, 1861, and was a bitter struggle for control of Missouri in the Civil War's first year. In fact it was only the second battle of the war.

There were heavy losses on both sides, but Missouri stayed in Union control. The easy to follow auto-tour of the battlefield took us through the various aspects of the Battle, and we learned plenty about the state and how it became the third most fought-over in the nation. Be looking for the complete story of this historic battle on our What's New page soon.

Our minds swimming with visions of the Civil War, we headed out of the battlefield and decided to take roads less traveled on to Eureka Springs. After going through portions of the Mark Twain National Forest, we wound up coming into the Springs via Highway 23 and were greeted with the Eureka Springs North American Railway. We're coming into town during the off season, so the railway was closed to tourists, but there was still plenty for the history lover to see, including the Round House Inn across the street that is currently up for sale.

On into town we started to get a better feel for Eureka Springs, with its historic hotels and businesses. That includes two supposedly haunted hotels, The Basin Park Hotel and The Crescent Hotel, both of which offer haunted tours in the evenings. We didn't have time to take the tours, but did visit both hotels and took in the atmosphere of a town already decked out for the holidays. If you plan to visit Eureka Springs be ready to park and walk as the streets of downtown are narrow and there's lots of others taking in the sights with you.

Eureka Springs is also home to The Passion Play, which seemed to be a religious theme park complete with a giant statue of Jesus called Christ of the Ozarks, erected back in 1966. The park even had a piece of the Berlin Wall on display outside of an old Church building on the grounds.

There would be enough to see in Eureka Springs to keep us busy for a couple of days, but our focus on this trip is mainly battlegrounds and forts, so we spent our quiet evening resting up for the next days adventure all the way through the Cherokee Nation of Oklahoma to Howe Texas, with another key Civil War battlefield in-between. We'll tell you more about Pea Ridge in our next blog.