Natchez to Home via New Orleans

First, a little whine with my cheese....

I had this blog 98% complete last week, but during the final touches the technical gods, as they have done since the beginning of the year, decided to continue my punishment and wiped out every single letter of my writing.  Is it because I still cling to Windows XP?  Could it be that my refusal to accept fancy flash web building and videos that start automatically (and annoy the heck of me) has somehow put me at odds with technology who is now on a full court blitz to make my life miserable?  Or could it be that it's simply time to stop using Google's Blogger for our blog?  The jury is still out on that last question, but something tells me there is a better platform that would have let me go back to a previous draft of this blog entry.  Of course, that has nothing to do with the hardware and software failures we've dealt with since the beginning of the year, and most definitely is not why 'you' came here.....so I'll gulp the last of my whine and move on.

Askew Landing to Natchez 

Water Mill at Grand Gulf

We said goodbye to our friends as Askew Landing and headed back south, through Vicksburg, to Grand Gulf Military Park.  Just outside of Port Gibson, this was an excellent stop and we found the small admission fee to be well worth it. Grand Gulf was once a bustling river port town in the first half of the 19th Century, and it's European history dates back to the late 1700's when the Spanish issued land grants to settlers in the area. Located very near the Mississippi River, the Big Black River flowed into the Mississippi at this point offering easy access to river trade. As the area began to flourish, three land owners decided to lay out a new town on their property in 1828, and named for a large whirlpool which formed as the Mississippi River struck a great rock formation just north of the town site.

Old Church around Grand Gulf

A series of disasters, including yellow fever, would plague the town, and by the time the Civil War came knocking, the population had decreased from over a thousand to less than 200.  Grand Gulf Military Park was officially opened in 1962. Dedicated to preserving the memory of the town as well as the Battle of Grand Gulf, the park features a museum, a number of historic buildings that date to the era of Grand Gulf's heydays, a cemetery, and the Civil War sites of Fort Cobun and Fort Wade.

A tour through the 400 acre park, listed on the National Register of Historic Places, provides visitors a peek at the past through displays in the museum, buildings and equipment on the grounds, and numerous historical markers. Visitors can tour the park by either driving or walking. The best place to start is in the museum, which provides information on the tour and features historical items, artifacts and photographs from the old town of Grand Gulf and the Civil War. It also features a campground, which accommodates both tents and RV's, picnic areas, a pavilion for large group events, hiking trails, and an observation tower.

Read more about the history of this once thriving port city in our article Grand Gulf - A Bustling Port Along the River.

Other new articles related to this area - 
Rodney - From Prominence to Ghost Town
Bruinsburg to Port Gibson in the Vicksburg Campaign
Windsor Ruins - A Silent Sentinel to the Magnificent South

Inside Mount Locust

Leaving Grand Gulf, we hooked back up to the Natchez Trace at Port Gibson for our final stretch of the historic road to Natchez.  Trying to beat yet more rain, which we dealt with most of the trip, we concentrated our efforts on just a couple of stops, one of which is Mount Locust. The only remaining inn, or "stand" on the Parkway, Mount Locust allows you to see what the "Kaintucks" may have experienced at the road side stands. It is open year round (mile post 15.5), except for December 25, and rangers are available from 9:00 am to 4:30 pm to share information on the historic structure.

While your here you can walk along some of the original Trace, used for centuries by Native American's and early European settlers.  The "stand" has been restored to it's original 1820 appearance, and while we were there, the National Park Service was building a new visitors information center on site.  Be sure to walk behind the "inn" to the slave cemetery hidden in the trees just a short walk away.

After Mount Locust, and just off the trace (mile post 10.3), we headed for Emerald Mound, the second largest Indian Temple Mound in the United States. It was built and used between 1300 and 1600 A.D. by the forerunners of the Natchez Indians. These Indians used a natural hill as a base, which they reshaped by trimming the top and filling the sides to form a great primary platform, 770 feet long, 435 feet wide and 35 feet high. At the west end still stands a 30 foot secondary mound once topped by a ceremonial structure. Exit the Natchez Trace Parkway at Mississippi Highway 553 and go west one mile.

Emerald Mound

We didn't do the Church Hill Loop Route side trip, but it would be worth your time to explore.  At the same exit to Emerald Mound, Highway 553 bears to the right (road to Emerald Mound goes straight). The rural community of Church Hill is located at the intersection of Mississippi Highway 553 and Church Hill Road. The area is named after Christ Church which sits atop a terraced hill. Built in about 1790, the building's design was copied from the old country church buildings of England. Across the intersection is a wooden country store built around 1837. The store bears the name Wagners Grocery on the upper header of the store. The store, which also housed the post office, was closed in the late 1990's. Antebellum plantations line both sides of Highway 553. The Church Hill Loop is 22 miles long - 12 miles along Mississippi Highway 553 and 10 miles along the Natchez Trace Parkway from milepost 10.3 to milepost 20.

Grand Village of the Natchez

Our final stop on our tour of the Natchez Trace Parkway was actually after exiting the Trace in Natchez.  The Grand Village of the Natchez was the tribes main ceremonial center starting around 1682. The early French inhabitants of the area described the ceremonial mounds built by the Natchez Indians on the banks of St. Catherine Creek as the "the Grand Village of the Natchez Indians." In 1729, after several disagreements and acts of violence, the Indians provoked war with the French and were subsequently destroyed as a people. The 128-acre Grand Village site features a museum, a reconstructed Natchez Indian house, and three ceremonial mounds. From the southern terminus of the Natchez Trace Parkway, turn onto U.S. Highway 61 South (Seargent S. Prentiss Drive); turn left onto Jefferson Davis Boulevard. The Grand Village of the Natchez Indians will be on your right.

For more information on the original road, and the Natchez Trace National Parkway, including sites by mile post, see our article Natchez Trace - Traveled For Thousands of Years

Also enjoy our Vicksburg, MS Area photo gallery


The City of Natchez

A view of Natchez from Louisiana

We pulled across the Mississippi River to an RV Park just across from Natchez in Vadalia Louisiana for our next stay.  (RV Campground/Park reviews at the end of this article).  If you're into American History at all, and love old Antebellum homes of the south, you'll want to spend a minimum of 2 days here, if not more. Named for the Natchez Indian Tribe, the city was established by French colonists in 1716, making it one of the oldest and most important European settlements in the lower Mississippi River Valley.

Don't miss the incredible Natchez Visitors Center at the head of the Mississippi River Bridge on Highway 84. The facility is the Mississippi Welcome Center, home to local offices of the National Park Service, the Natchez Convention and Visitors Bureau, as well as Natchez Pilgrimage Tours.  A must stop before you go touring, and a one stop shop for tickets to tour the antebellum homes.

Kathy thinks Crawfish are too
much work.

We had the opportunity to stop in at the Under the Hill Saloon before kicking off our tour of the rest of the city and had a great time with Beth and the crew, who even introduced us to the art of eating "mud bugs" they had brought in from a local eatery. Built in the late 1700's or early 1800's, the buildings exact date of construction was lost in a courthouse fire. But history shows it has been used as a brothel, bar, warehouse and general merchandise store.

Back in the 1800's, Natchez was divided into two classes. The town on the bluff which was orderly and respectful,where life and property were safe. And then there was Natchez Under-the-Hill, the lower part of town along the busy river bank. Home to every vice imaginable, it had a rough and tumble time during the busy years of flatboats and steamboats. The historic building that is now the Under the Hill Saloon still speaks of a time filled with cheap whiskey, illicit love and gambling. The Saloon holds the distinction of being the only business still operating 'under-the-hill' that portrays the early days of frontier saloon life. This is a great stop to quench your thirst.

Rosalie Mansion, Natchez

Natchez served as the capital of the Mississippi Territory and State until being replaced by Jackson in 1822, and was a pivotal center for trade and commerce. The city was originally built by African slaves brought by the French, which were the first Africans in what would become Mississippi. Known for their cultivation, these Africans of the Bambara tribe would greatly contribute to the economic growth of the region.

In the mid 1800's, the city was home to a collection of wealthy Southern planters who grew large crops of cotton and sugar cane, leading to Natchez becoming the principal port for the export of these crops. The fortunes earned by the wealthy lead to the building of many large mansions, most of which escaped the destruction of the Civil War due to the city's quick surrender to Union forces in May of 1862.  Many of these homes are open to tours, some even serving as a bed a breakfast.  We will most definitely be writing more about Natchez soon.

Natchez to the Gulf Coast

We headed south out of Natchez to our next destination on the coast, crossing into Louisiana on Highway 61  before going back east to Bay St. Louis on I-12 out of Baton Rouge. Highlights for us from this stretch include Port Hudson and St. Francisville.

Myrtle Plantation, St. Francisville

St. Francisville, established in 1809, has a number of buildings from that period that have survived.  Spain claimed the area around St. Francisville for a time before it was annexed by the state of Louisiana in 1810. And Jewish immigrants played a big role in commerce in the late 1800's that helped the town survive the lean years after the war. This is a great town for those wanting to see restored plantations and Victorian homes.

We made a quick stop at Myrtles Plantation for some picture opportunities.  Built in 1796 by General David Bradford, it was originally called Laurel Grove. The property has changed hands several times since and currently features a full service restaurant, Bed and Breakfast, guided history and mystery tours and more.  Said to be one of America's most haunted homes, the plantation has been featured on several television shows, including Unsolved Mysteries in 2002, where the production crew is said to have experienced technical difficulties while trying to film.

Display at Port Hudson

A few more miles down highway 61, Port Hudson State Historic Site in Louisiana preserves the Civil War history here as Confederates used the bluffs near the small town as river batteries in their effort to contain Federal troops after the fall of New Orleans.  The siege of Port Hudson in May of 1863 saw 30,000 Union troops against less than 7,000 Confederates in some of the bloodiest and most severe fighting of the Civil War.

As the siege continued for weeks, Confederate finally surrendered in early July after 48 days of battle. The siege of Port Hudson was the longest in American military history.  Now a National Historic Landmark as well as a State Historic Site, they hold annual re-enactments the last full weekend in March.  There's a small admission fee to the park, with a museum at the visitors center and several hiking trails. Nice stop for a day trip or on your way to other destinations.

Bay St Louis Area

Mr Riley & Ms Kaydee were missing
the 14 inches of snow back home. NOT

After a short rainy night  in Hammond, LA, we pushed on to our next long term RV Park stay near Bay Saint Louis, MS. (RV Park reviews at end of this article) Bay Saint Louis, Waveland and other nearby towns along the coast have a feel of "newness".  It was here that the eye of Hurricane Katrina made landfall in August of 2005, devastating the entire region. We could see, even seven plus years later, many empty lots along the coast that were surely once occupied by historic homes.

This area was claimed for France in 1699, but also has Native American roots dating back thousands of years.  As far as more recent history, after the Civil War the town and area became a resort for Northerners seeking warmer climates, and the town and surrounding areas flourished. However disasters have plagued the region over the years.  Large fires in the early 1900's claimed many historic homes, churches, stores and the Opera House.  Then Hurricane Camille rolled ashore in 1969, killing hundred and destroying thousands of homes and businesses. But the worst was yet to come with Hurricane Katrina in 2005.  Thirty-eight foot waves pounded Bay Saint Louis, destroying beach front mansions and homes that dated back to 1787.  In fact, out of over 500 homes listed on the National Historic Register in the Beach Boulevard district, all but 16 were wiped out and the remaining severely damaged.

This Oak carved into an Angle Tree
to commemorate 3 survivors who clung
to it during Katrina.

One of our stops was at the Cypress Cafe, located in the historic Bay St. Louis Mississippi City Hall. It was here on August 17, 1928, when the city jail was located on the bottom floor, that prisoner Silas Richardson, arrested for car theft, shot his way to freedom. In the process, he killed John Dambrino who was there to pick up the keys to the stolen vehicle, and seriously wounded Chief of Police Mark Oliver. It was suspected that someone handed Richardson a gun through the bars of his cell at the back of the building.

Richardson hid in a nearby swamp before hopping a freight train to New Orleans, but came back to Bay St. Louis in late August to get his clothes. Spotted by a neighbor of his parents, he was captured, found guilty in September and after losing appeals, was hung early May of 1929. It was first hanging in 20 years, and the last hanging ever in Hancock County.

Bay St. Louis old City Hall, now
Cypress Cafe

While we were at the Cypress Cafe, owner Holly Lemoine-Raymond gave us a tour, showing us where the cells were in the back, along with where the shooting took place. The building is allegedly haunted, but Holly seemed to have some reservations about the "ghostly" aspect. Here staff however told us of unexplained occurrences like a side door that you can only open from inside, opening and slamming on its own. Some allege it's John Dambrino, the shooting victim who is buried a block away in an historic cemetery. Regardless of what you believe, this was a great stop for a delicious lunch and history in historic downtown Bay St. Louis.

The town is also home to St. Stanislaus College, founded by the Brothers of the Sacred Heart in 1854 and the oldest educational institution on the Gulf Coast. In 1923, the school became a college preparatory school.  We had a great time in this area, and the residents have done a wonderful job in their continuing efforts to rebuild.  It was definitely a "leisure" stop for us that included some much needed beach time. Other highlights of our stay included the beautiful drive along the coast to Biloxi and Gulf Port.  Well worth your time, especially if your inland folks like us.

Here is our photo gallery for Natchez and our trip to the Gulf



Wrapping up our Winter History Tour with New Orleans & Southern Louisiana

After a wonderful stay just outside of Bay Saint Louis, we moved back west on Highway 90 to one of our ultimate destinations, the Big Easy.  Along the way we stopped by Chalmette Battlefield, part of Jean Lafitte National Park.  It was here that the famous Battle of New Orleans took place in January of 1815, the last major battle of the War of 1812, and one that is considered as the greatest American land victory of the war.  It also didn't have to happen, since the Treaty of Ghent was signed just days before in late December of 1814.

Battle of New Orleans

This Battlefield features a small driving tour (free of charge) as well as a visitors center.  Nice stop for history buffs, but our primary focus was to see more of New Orleans, specifically the French Quarter. There is too much history here to simply blog about, but in short, La Nouvelle-Orleans was founded in May of 1718 by the French Mississippi Company.  During the American Revolution it was an important port city for smuggling aid to rebels, transporting them up the Mississippi River.  During the 1700's the city transitioned from French control to Spanish control, which they held until 1801, when it reverted back to the French, before finally being sold to the United States in 1803 as part of the Louisiana Purchase.  In the early 1800's, the Haitian Revolution sent thousands of refugees to the area, adding to the extremely diverse cultures of Spanish, French, Creoles, Irish, Germans and African free men and slaves.

Bourbon Street

The French Quarter is the oldest neighborhood in the city, which used to be centered here. Also known as Vieux Carre (French for Old Square), most of the present day buildings were built under Spanish rule after the Great New Orleans Fire of 1788, and another fire in 1794 destroyed most of the French architecture. You should plan at least 2 full days, if not more, to explore the French Quarter, and other day or two to explore the rest of the city.  We managed to find an RV Park not to far away provided shuttle service to and from the French Quarter daily, so without the hassle of trying to find parking, etc, we thoroughly enjoyed walking up and down the historic streets.  You'll find entertainers scattered about, playing music, juggling and overall entertaining tourists for tips.

St. Louis Cathederal

Be sure not to miss Jackson Square, formerly known as Place d'Armes, which is an open park at the center of the French Quarter.  After the Battle of New Orleans it was named after the victorious Andrew Jackson. Just across the street, opposite of the river front, is the 18th century St. Louis Cathedral flanked by the old city hall (now a museum) where the Louisiana Purchase was signed, and the Presbytere, built to house Roman Catholic priests, and later acting as a courthouse in the 1800's and museum in the 1900's.  Today the square is a gathering place for artists, tarot card readers, fortune tellers and street performers.

We also took time to ride the trolley lines through portions of the area to see the old antebellum homes, although looking back we would have explored that differently.  Overall though, you will not be disappointed with a visit to New Orleans and it's rich history of culture. We were there weeks after Mardi Gras yet Bourbon Street and the entire area was alive with people the Sunday we explored the French Quarter, so no worries about missing any of the action the rest of the year. We will return and spend more time for sure.

New York City's Calypso Tumblers
 perform at Jackson Square

After New Orleans we began our trek home, touring more of Southern Louisiana.  Highlights for us included Avery Island near New Iberia, Arcadian Village in Lafayette and this historic city of Natchitoches.

Tabasco Country Store

We parked a couple of nights at New Iberia and spent a day at Avery Island.  The home of Tabasco Sauce, this 'island' has quite an interesting history. One of five salt domes islands that area along the Louisiana coast, it is surrounded by low lying swamps and marshes.  It was named for the Avery family that settled here in the 1830's.  In 1868, Edmund Mclhenny founded his company and began manufacturing Tabasco brand pepper sauce, which is still produced there today. Take a tour of the plant, and be sure to visit the Tabasco Store.

Swore he was fake, til the damn thing
took off and scared the..well, you know

After you've had your fill of sauce, cross the road to Jungle Gardens and Bird City. This is a natural paradise created and managed by the Avery/Mclhenny family's since the late 1800's, and features exotic plants, crocodiles, bamboo and other wildlife.  The bird sanctuary was established in 1895 as a way to preserve egrets who were being slaughtered for their feathers. After raising a handful in captivity, Edward Mclhenny released them to mirgrate across the Gulf of Mexico and the following spring they returned with more egrets. This migration continues today where you can witness thousands coming back to roost. There's a small admission fee to the island and additional charge for Jungle Gardens, but well worth the price. Plan a full day for Avery Island.

Arcadian Village

Our next stay was with an old childhood friend of Kathy's in Lake Charles. On the way from New Iberia, we stopped at the Arcadian Village in Lafayette.  Created in the 1970's as a way to improve tourism, this  "village" has two other purposes; preserve early Arcadian heritage and benefit the LARC (Lafayette Association for Retarded Citizens).  They transformed 10 acres of farmland into a shaded community complete with a bayou running through it.  Seven of the 11 buildings area authentic homes of the 19th Century, and all tell the story of Arcadian life.  The admission fee was worth the price as we explored the many buildings in this 'historic' setting.

Kathy and I capture our happy moment
in front of the medicine cabinet at
Arcadian Village.

Our final stretch, after a couple of wonderful days with Kathy's friend Ann in Lake Charles, found us in Natchitoches, Louisiana's oldest town, established in 1714. You may recognize it as the setting for the movie "Steel Magnolias", and it's steeped in Native American and French history.  Becoming part of the United States in 1812, the area never  lost it's mix of Indian, French, Creole, African American and Anglo cultures. We spent a day around the city exploring the Cane River National Heritage Area, which includes many old Plantations open to tours daily.  Plan a couple of days at least in this historic city, one to enjoy the Plantations and another to enjoy the historic downtown.

We'll be writing more about Southern Louisiana in the months to come.  It was a great adventure to wrap up our six week history tour.  Although we had some setbacks due to RV problems in Mississippi that prevented us from seeing all we had planned to see, our trip did manage to teach us some valuable lessons; like shorter more frequent blogs are better (if you've made it this far you will probably agree), find a more reliable internet method other than RV Parks wifi and ATT's network, don't count on the weather to cooperate, and pretty much just go with the flow.  I'm sure there's more lessons, but overall Kathy and I were very happy that we managed to live in tight quarters for six weeks with two dogs and still want to do it again.

Here is our photo gallery for Southern Louisiana, including New Orleans



____________________________________________________________
RV Park/Campground Reviews

River View RV Park & Resort - Vadalia, LA
Good location, nice view of the river, very accommodating and friendly staff, some sites need better leveling as we had several inches of water at our front door after a heavy rain. WI-FI is non-existent, unless you're in the clubhouse, I guess. We were parked right in front and still couldn't get it. Excepted Passport during the week. We gave this one 7 out of 10

Bay Hideaway RV Park and Campground - Bay Saint Louis, MS
We can see why this RV Park is rated one of the best in the South. Great location just a few miles from the Gulf Coast. Very active with guests with planned outings and activities. Very clean and great Wi-Fi throughout the park during off peak hours. Although we stayed for only a few days (at passport rates during the week), there are several snow birds that come back year after year. Highly recommend this RV Park. While we did not use the shower/bathroom facilities, we did use their laundry, which was clean. We gave this one 8 out 10.

Jude Travel Park - New Orleans, LA
If you are wanting to get close to the French Quarter without paying through the nose, this is a great RV Park. They offer shuttle service to and from the French Quarter from morning to around 10pm. Great WiFi and Cable TV. The RV Park is very tight though, and while they are pet friendly, there's not a lot of places to take your dog, other than your own area and up and down the single road in/out. Would recommend to those wanting to spend quality time exploring New Orleans. We marked "do not know" on family friendly simply because of the tight space. Did not accept Passport. We rated this park 6 out of 10.

Chases RV Park - New Iberia, LA
Friendly staff and good RV Park. Great Wi-Fi close to the office, and just off highway 90 and 83 interchange. Did not use bathrooms while here, so don't know about them. Spacious and it appears to have some long term residents. Great place to stay to explore New Iberia and Avery Island which are close by. Did not accept Passport. We rated this one 7 out of 10.

(Note: We use RV Park Reviews. Traveling in a 22' Travel Trailer. All electric 30 amp or more unless otherwise noted).

History Abounds Around Askew Landing

We were coming off a nice stay in Louisville, Mississippi where we had spent a few days catching up on stories and the business parts that pay the bills.  Ready to get back on the road and explore more history of Mississippi we hit the road and found ourselves in Philadelphia looking for one of Kathy's passions...Old General Stores.

Williams Brothers Store doesn't disappoint if your looking for an historic general store still in operation.  From the bins of beans and seeds outside, to the fresh cut bacon inside, this place has a little bit of everything and is no small operation.  Established in 1907 by brothers Amzie and Brown Williams, it still holds that old charm of yesteryear.  According to an article in the Mississippi Business Journal, it looks pretty much as it did in 1939 when it was featured in National Geographic.

Williams Bros Store, Philadelphia, MS
Still slicing fresh bacon since 1907.

The article from last August points out that Williams Brothers employs up to 60 at the store, and sells everything from red rind Wisconsin hoop cheese to denim overalls. They even have some designer clothes.  Today the store is still in the family and going strong.  It has been a long time since I've seen a butcher actually slicing bacon for a customer. Need to get out of big chain rut and visit places like this more often.

After Philadelphia, we hooked west to get back on the Natchez Trace. The River Bend Picnic area (Mile Post 122.6) provided a nice stop to learn about the Pearl River.  Named the "River of Pearls" by French explorer Pierre Le Moync, Sieur d'lberville, the Trace avoided the marshy lowlands of this area by following the ridge between the Pearl and Big Black Rivers for 150 miles. The last 75 miles of the rivers course have served as a boundary between Mississippi and Louisiana since 1812.

Cypress Swamp on the Natchez Trace

Just a half mile away (mile post 122), you can really see why the Trace avoided lowlands.  Here, you can take a 20 minute walk through a water tupelo/bald cypress swamp, which we found quite "magical".  Cypress Swamp was created when the Pearl River changed its course and left an abandoned river channel. Water tupelo and bald cypress trees can live in deep water for long periods of time. In fact, some of the living Cypress trees may have seen the passage of Hernando de Soto nearly 500 years ago. During periodic low water, seedlings of these trees took root and the aquatic forest is the result.   As the channel fills with silt and vegetation, other trees will gradually take over, but not for several hundred years.

Kathy and I loved this stop for it's natural beauty, and recommend you take time for a leisurely stroll yourself. Although we did not see any, alligators are sometimes seen here. They look like floating logs with nostrils and mostly hide or sleep.  Of course, that meant every log I looked at in the water was suspect, and I probably wasted quite a bit of digital space on the camera. I'm writing this in the blog so when I look at the photos years from now I won't wonder about my "floating wood obsession". A sign along the trail warns not to throw food to them or they may lose their fear of humans and become aggressive.

Boyd Mound on the Trace

After Cypress Swamp we made another "mound" stop at Boyd Site (mile post 106.9). These Indian burial mounds were built up to 1200 years ago. Archaeologists indicate there was a house here sometime around 500 A.D., and that pottery found in the mounds date back before 700 A.D.  While we are enjoying the burial mounds along the trace, we are finding that, after a few, a mound is a mound. The history is fascinating though. 

(Read more about the Mound Builders of Mississippi)

As we left Boyd Site we noticed traffic getting heavier as we were about to cross the northwest part of Jackson. We somehow missed Brashears Stand and another piece of Old Trace (mile post 104.5). The stand was advertised in 1806 as a "house of entertainment in the wilderness", and part of the original Trace is nearby. Osburn Stand (mile post 93.1), was opened by Noble Osburn in 1811 but by the early 1820's, when Jackson was founded, traffic shifted away from this part of the Trace. As with many of these stops, only a marker remains.

Cowles Mead Cemetery

A better stop for us, being the cemetery nuts we are, was Cowles Mead Cemetery (mile post 88.1).  Mead came from the east for the opportunity the Mississippi Territory had to offer.  In addition to owning a tavern on the Old Trace near Natchez, he also held several political offices, including acting governor in 1806.  During this time he ordered the arrest of Aaron Burr for treason but the former Vice President was acquitted  Mead followed the growth of the state and moved to the Jackson area, where here he built his "Greenwood" estate.  Little remains today as the estate burned after his death during the Civil War. But the family cemetery remains.

Askew Landing near Edwards, MS

Welcome to Askew's Landing

We exited the Trace at Raymond to find our next long term stay. Kathy and I found a gem of an RV Campground hidden off back in the woods near Edwards, Ms.  Askew Landing is in a perfect location for us, just 20 miles outside of Vicksburg and within driving distance for more Natchez Trace and plenty of other great Mississippi  history. And there's great history right here at the campground, which is part of Bridgeport Plantation.  

Established by Duklet Askew in 1859, he and his brother traveled from North Carolina to Mississippi searching for land to build a cotton plantation. Duklet bought  2,000 acres northeast of Edwards along the old Bridgeport Road and named it Bridgeport Plantation. He began by clearing more than 500 acres, farmed cotton, and built and operated a ferry across the Big Black River. Some time later, he built a cotton gin and general store close to the ferry on Bridgeport Road.

Askew's Landing is an historic site

Life on the plantation was interrupted in 1863 by the Civil War as Confederates, fleeing after the Battle of Champion Hill back towards Vicksburg, were involved in skirmishes. The Confederates used Askew's Ferry to cross the Big Black River, then destroyed the ferry so that the pursuing Union troops couldn't use it. Nearly a month later, during the Operations in Northeast Mississippi, another skirmish took place at the plantation when a a Confederate cavalry force unsuccessfully challenged the Union picket guarding General Grant's eastern line.

See our full story on Bridgeport Plantation and Askew's Landing HERE. 

Dan and Edna Askew

Askew Landing RV Campground is truly one of Mississippi's best kept secrets.  Listed on the National Register of Historic places with the camp ground sitting in the center of 300 wooded acres, it is easy to access off I-20, but, far enough away to shield its visitors from the sounds of nearby traffic or passers-through. With plenty of history to explore within driving distance, and due to 'beyond our control' circumstances, this wound up being our longest stay at any campground (almost 2 weeks).  Things happen when you are RV'ing, and we were lucky it happened here. (See RV Campground reviews at the end of this article)

Day Trips from Askew

Battle of Champion Hill

Over the course of our stay at Askew Landing we took several day trips to nearby history. One of our first excursions from the campground was the nearby Battle of Champion Hill, southeast of Edwards.  This is not your typical "let's go see the battleground".  There are markers scattered about that you have to know of ahead of time, or a private tour of the Champion Hill Battlefield can also be arranged with a descendant and owner of the property. ($25/person, minimum of two as of February, 2013). By all accounts, we've heard this is an excellent tour given by the great-great grandson of the original owner of the property.

Champion Hill Battle Marker on Billy
Fields road SW of Edwards

Being the explorers we are though, and having multiple destinations in a day, we opted to find what we could "off private property", and found quite a bit.   The Battle of Champion Hill, May 16, 1863, is described  as a critical battle that could have swung the war to the Confederates.  In fact, if Confederate forces had been victorious, Vicksburg would never have fallen, as General Ulysses Grant's Vicksburg campaign could have been stopped. Instead it was a disastrous day for Confederate Lieutenant General John Pemberton that put his troops on the run, and allowed Grant's momentum to continue.  

Of the Champion Hill area, the battlefield and some of the original roads are very well preserved. However, there are no original buildings. Thousands of acres of the core battlefield are privately owned and another 800 acres of the outlying area is owned by the State of Mississippi. An additional 402 acres have been protected by the Civil War Preservation Trust through conservation easements and land purchases. There are hopes that parts of these properties may become an extension of the Vicksburg National Military Park.

Read our full story on the Battle of Champion Hill, including a link to a points of interest map of the battleground HERE. 

1859 Courthouse in Raymond, MS

A few miles down Highway 467 from Edwards sits another battle site in and around the historic town of Raymond.  Just off the Natchez Trace, Raymond was established in the late 1820's and at the time was the Hinds County Seat, before it moved to Jackson.  In addition to Civil War history surrounding the Battle of Raymond on May 12, 1863, you'll find find plenty of small town charm, along with historic buildings, such as the 1859 courthouse built in southern Greek revival architecture. 

Confederate Cemetery at Raymond

At Carter Cemetery just south of town we found a Confederate Cemetery, one of several we are running into.  Kathy and I had never really dived into how the Union and Confederate's handled their fallen until now.  Really, as American's, I guess some of us assume that National Cemeteries would be for Confederates and Union alike. That's not the case, as you have to keep in mind that we were not 'one' nation at the time.  In fact, it wasn't until 1906 that the Federal Government became involved in permanently marking Confederate graves. 

There's some very interesting history in how our National Cemeteries came to be and how the Confederate fallen were handled.  Read "The Evolution of National Cemeteries", courtesy  Kelly Merrifield for the National Park Service, HERE. 

Gibbes General Store, Learned, MS

After Raymond, Kathy was on a mission to find an historic Church.   But, as we have many times before, our mission becomes distracted by bright shiny objects, like another old Country Store that we literally stumbled upon in the very small town of Learned, MS.  Gibbes General Store was established around 1899.  Still in the family, this is another great stop for history and nostalgia buffs like us. 

Inside Gibbes General store is like
stepping back in time. 

We had a very pleasant visit with Chip Gibbes, the current generational owner, who told us about his families history in Learned dating  back to 1836.  As the only business left in the town, Gibbes Country Store is a combination 'museum' of sorts, as well as an active store and, some nights, even a steak house.   We tried, but couldn't make it for what we understand to be one heck of a dinner service, but we did enjoy the visit and the old historic building.  And to top it off, we found out Chip is a second cousin of Dan Askew at Askew's Landing.  Yep, 'small world' applies in Mississippi too. 

This tree at the Coker
House has a lot going on.

Our day trip concluded with a visit to the Coker House, part of the Battle of Champion Hill off highway 467.  The original is gone,  just within the past few years, but there is a reconstructed home at the site now with many interpretive signs explaining the history of the home, it's occupants and its role in the battle.  On the southern edges of the battle, it sustained fire from both sides, as well as serving as a field hospital after the battle.  Overwhelmed a bit from all our Civil War history, I couldn't take my eyes off a peculiar tree in front of the house.  Not a lot of words to describe its character, so I'll just let your imagination go with the photo.  

Valentines Day Trip with more Trace, Fried Chicken, Historic University, Ghost Town & Ruins

Water rises at Askew's Landing

Did I mention how much it has rained since we've been in Mississippi? And we're not talking your passing thunderstorm either.  Kathy and I had our first experience of being stuck in the trailer for 3 days at Askew's Landing, watching the pond behind our trailer devour the road into the campground and inch closer and closer to our electric box.  At least we know this amount of rain is abnormal for February, and the alternative back home in Warsaw, MO is lots of snow. 

Rocky Springs Church, built 1837

So it was with great relief that Valentines Day turned out to be one of those 'blue sky' sunny days, perfect for a day trip on the Natchez Trace and more.  We first headed south of Edwards to Old Port Gibson road, then over to the town that is no more, Rocky Springs, just off the Natchez Trace.  Here you'll find the Rocky Springs Church, built in 1837.  Still active, it was built by Methodists in the town, which up til then, had been a station for a circuit riding preacher who stopped here only once or twice a month.  

A safe remains as evidence of Rocky  Springs

Early travelers along the Trace called the area "the Rocky Spring", and as the rural community developed in the late 1790's, several businesses were established, including a post office in 1821.  The town boasted a population of over 2,600 in 1860, 2,000 of which were slaves, but that would be its peak.  In addition to the ravages of the Civil War, a yellow fever outbreak in 1878 would devastate the population, and then in the 1900's the boll weevil struck their cotton crops. Rocky Springs would rapidly decline after that, and it's last store closed during the 1930's. Today a short interpretive walking trail will take you to the church, its cemetery and some interesting artifacts, like an old  safe which could have belonged to a store, sitting on the side of the hill.  

At Rocky Springs we hooked back up with the Natchez Trace and, after missing Owen's Creek Waterfall at mile post 52.4, our first stop was Grindstone Ford (mile post 45.7). This ford marked the beginning of the wilderness of the Choctaw nation and the end of the old Natchez District. Fort Deposit nearby was a supply depot for troops clearing the Trace in the early part of the 1800's, and troops were assembled here during the Burr conspiracy allegedly to separate the Western States from the Union.  

Old Cemetery at Grindstone Ford

In addition, Riverboatmen on foot and horseback crossed here after floating cargo down from Ohio River to New Orleans and Mississippi. Soldiers came here while protecting the Natchez District from British and Spanish threats. And Daniel Burnett's stand stood here. Burnett was a principal negotiator with the Choctaws, and framer of the Mississippi state constitution. For many, this was the line between civilization and the wilderness.  If you want to see the original road, this is another great stop, with a section of sunken Trace along with a small graveyard dating back to it's active years.  

Also nearby, Magnum Mound, another example of the Mississippi Mound Builders, tells us much about the people of the late prehistoric period. The Plaquemine culture included the ancestors of the modern tribes of Mississippi and Louisiana. It was a society with elaborate agriculturally oriented religious ceremonies. From the burials on this mound, it is known there is a high infant mortality, and upon the death of a chief, a brutal ritual was enacted in which his retainers were slain and buried with him.

We exited off the Trace near Loreman for the "Windsor Ruins Loop Route", a 32 mile long loop through Alcorn and Port Gibson, Mississippi providing a number of interesting stops. The loop is comprised of 20 miles along Mississippi Highway 552/Rodney Road, 7 miles along the Natchez Trace Parkway from milepost 30 to 37 and five miles through the town of Port Gibson and back to the Trace.  

Old Country Store, Loreman MS

We didn't follow the exact route promoted, and first on our agenda was lunch at the Old Country Store in Loreman, on Highway 61.  The building started as a General Mercantile store in 1890. Built by brothers M. Heiman, L. Joseph and R. Lehman Cohn who were already successful merchants in Clifton, Ms since 1875, the store in Lorman continued in the Cohn family until 1956. It was renamed the Old Country Store in 1964 by then owner Enest T. Breithaupt, who had been a long time employee of the Cohns'. Breithaupt and his wife Ruth ran the store for 30 years until Ernest's death in 1995. 

Mr. "D" serenades guests
at the Old Country Store

In 1996 the contents of the building were auctioned off and the building refurbished, opening back up in 1997 as a restaurant. Today, along with walls of memorabilia, travelers along Highway 61 stop in for Arthur Davis' famous 'Heavenly Fried Chicken". Mr."D", as he is known, entertains guests regularly with his song about Grand Mama's cornbread, and cooks up a mighty fine all-you-can-eat lunch buffet.  We found Mr. "D" and the employees service to be excellent, entertaining and down right fun. After serenading us, Arthur even gave me a rose to give to Kathy for Valentines Day.  As for the food, this is prime southern cooking at its finest.  Yes, the chicken is great, but I personally loved the cornbread even more.  

After wiping our chins and taking in the memorabilia at the store, we headed back onto highway 552 and entered the grounds of historic Alcorn University.  It should be noted that you must pass through a security gate here, but the guard on duty was extremely nice and accommodating as we wanted to get some pictures of some of the historic buildings. 

Oakland Chapel built 1838

Alcorn is the oldest public historically black land-grant institution in the United States, and the second oldest state supported institution of higher learning in Mississippi.  It began in 1830 as Oakland College, founded by Dr. Jeremiah Chamberlain.  An ardent Unionist and Whig, Chamberlain was assassinated on campus in 1851 by a secessionist, and after a few years of decline, Oakland College closed its doors at the beginning of the Civil War.  The property was sold to the state afterwards, and in 1871 Alcorn University was established to provide higher education for freedmen.  Named for James L. Alcorn, the state's governor at the time, at first it was exclusively for black males. However in 1895 women were admitted, and since that time it has continued to grow and educates over 4,000 students from all over the world. The oldest building on the campus is the Oakland Chapel built in 1838.  

Old Service Station? - Rodney MS.

Kathy and I love Ghost Towns, and our next stop was way off the beaten path.  4.8 miles southwest of Alcorn you'll find Rodney.  Now, we took "College Road", a dirt road that exits out the back of Alcorn University to Rodney Road, but most would want to get there via Rodney Road from Loreman.  With very few residents today, Rodney was once so important that it almost became the capitol of Mississippi.  In the 1860's it boasted a population of 4,000 and was the busiest port on the Mississippi River between New Orleans and St. Louis.  However the river changed course, forever altering the fate of the town, and its population decreased to its ghost town status of today. 

Rodney Church built 1828

Careful not to intrude on anyone's private property, we took in the old buildings and abandoned stores.  There are a couple of old churches in town, including the Presbyterian Church. Chartered in 1828 as the Church of Petit Gulf, it was shelled by the Gunboat "Rattler" when Federal sailors were captured by Confederate cavalry while attending Sunday services on September 13, 1863. Above the top middle window you may be able to make out the cannon ball stuck in the wall.

See our full story on Rodney Mississippi (COMING SOON) HERE. 

From Rodney we headed back to Highway 552 to see the Windsor Ruins. Smith Coffee Daniell II, successful cotton planter, completed construction of Windsor in 1861. The basic style was Greek Revival, but with added details borrowed from Italianate and Gothic architecture. The Windsor house contained 23 rooms, with an above ground basement, two residential floors and an attic. A cupola, where you could see the Mississippi River, was centered on the top of the roof. 

Windsor Ruins

Daniell, who owned over 20,000 acres of plantation land in Mississippi and Louisiana, died in April 1861 only weeks after completing the mansion. His wife and children continued to live here, but were left to suffer the loss of a large part of the family's holdings during the Civil War. Leading up to the Battle of Port Gibson in the spring of 1863, Confederate troops used the roof observatory as a lookout as General Ulysses S. Grant's army crossed the Mississippi River. After the battle the mansion was used as a Union hospital and observation post, thus sparing it from being burned by Union troops. Unfortunately, on February 17,1890, a house guest left a lighted cigar on the upper balcony and Windsor burned to the ground. Everything was destroyed except 23 of the columns, the balustrades, and the iron stairs. The Daniell family donated the ruins to the state in 1974.

There's more to see on this Windsor loop before reaching Port Gibson. See our Natchez Mile points of interest Mile posts 31 to 60 HERE. 

Claiborne County Courthouse

After Windsor we pulled into the historic city of Port Gibson.  This bustling town near the Gran Gulf Nuclear Power Station, is Mississippi's third oldest settlement, being occupied in 1729. Most of Port Gibson's historic buildings survived the Civil War because General Ulysses S. Grant believed the city "too beautiful to burn". Historic Church Street through the middle of town is lined with antebellum homes and church buildings, along with the beautiful Claiborne County Courthouse.  The Battle of Port Gibson in early May of 1863 was a turning point in the Confederates ability to defend against amphibious attack. 

Plan on a couple of days in Vicksburg

Biedenharn Candy Co building, Vicksburg

Although we had driven through Vicksburg on the way back from our Valentines day trip, we didn't stop as we wanted to dedicate a full day to the city.  In fact, to really do Vicksburg, you will need a couple of days, as there is a lot to explore in addition to Vicksburg National Military Park.  Like the Biedenharn Coca-Cola Museum. While Dr. Pemberton may have created his magic elixir in Atlanta back in 1866, it was Jospeh A. Biedenharn who first brought it to the people outside of Soda Shops. 

Memorabilia at the Biedenharn
Coca-Cola Museum

In 1894,  Biedenharn was so impressed by the growing demand for Coca-Cola at his soda fountain in Vicksburg that he installed bottle machinery in the rear of his store and began to sell cases of Coke to farms and lumber camps up and down the Mississippi River. He was the first bottler of Coca-Cola. The museum is in the very same Soda Shop in historic downtown. And for the record, all traces of Cocaine were removed from Coca-Cola in 1903, but of course they kept the coca flavoring.  Today, the  Biedenharn Coca-Cola Museum is owned and operated by the Vicksburg Foundation for Historic Preservation.

Kitchen on the Motor Vessel MS IV

In addition to the many other historic businesses and buildings, nearby you'll find the Motor Vessel Mississippi IV, a diesel-powered all steel ship that the Corps of Engineers used as a towboat and inspection vessel for the Mississippi River Commission.  It served from 1960 to it's decommission in 1993, and today provides visitors the opportunity to come aboard, learn and explore. 

Model of Vicksburg at the Museum

The vessel is located at the Lower Mississippi River Museum and Riverfront Interpretive Site. This is a must stop on your outing to Vicksburg, regardless whether you tour the ship.   The Museum covers the history of Vicksburg, its role on the mighty river, and much more.  Here we learned how the flood of 1927 resulted in hundreds of thousands displaced from their homes and unable to return for nearly 8 months after the rains had begun. It was the final motivation for many African American families to leave Vicksburg and relocate to other cities like St. Louis, Chicago and Detroit.  For landowners, they viewed this migration as a loss of labor, and used "forced work camps" to make sure their labor remained in tact. 

Illinois Memorial at Vicksburg

Markers for the Battle of Vicksburg can be found scattered in several locations around the city, but your primary Civil War stop is Vicksburg National Military Park.   A drive through this beautiful landscape will wind you through monument after monument, dedicated to the men who fought in this critical turning point in the War.  The Siege of Vicksburg, part of Union General and later President Ulysses Grant's Vicksburg Campaign, started in May of 1863 and would last until the Confederates surrender on July 4. The fall of Vicksburg that Summer, along with the defeat of Confederate General Robert E. Lee at Gettysburg, were critical turning points for the Union that would lead to overall victory over the Confederate States of America.

Missouri Memorial at Vicksburg

Being from Missouri, one monument in particular held special meaning for us.   The Missouri Monument at the Battlefield at Vicksburg, Mississippi  reminds us that the Civil War was not a struggle to fend off a foreign nation, but a war of Americans fighting Americans.

Here, Confederates from Missouri fought Union soldiers from Missouri. At Vicksburg - and across every Civil War battlefield - men who had once been friends faced off as enemies. Neighbors and even family members found themselves on opposite sides, fighting for different ideals. 

A rose left at the MO Monument

The inscription at the bottom of the monument reads "To commemorate and perpetuate the heroic services, the unselfish devotion to duty, and the exalted patriotism of the Missouri soldiers, Union and Confederate, who were engaged in the campaign, siege and defense of Vicksburg." 

The Military Park and all other notable Civil War battle sites around the city will take time for you to explore, so plan on a dedicated day or two and enjoy history at Vicksburg, MS.  

See our full article on the Battles between Jackson and Vicksburg HERE. 

Next travel blog, we explore a little more around Askew Landing and Edwards area along historic Highway 80, then finally made our way south to the beautiful city of Natchez. 

In the meantime, we'll be adding more to the Winter 2013 Photo Gallery HERE and via this slide show. 

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Related RV Park Reviews

Legends at Askew's Landing

Askew's Landing Campground - Extreme southern hospitality. Pet and family friendly. Can't say enough good things about Dan and Edna Askew and their staff.  Making sure the roads were good and customers taken care of.  Historic location (marker on site). Great WIFI, laundry facility and small store in office make it very convenient.  Beautiful location, hidden off the beaten track of I-20 and Edwards.  On a large pond/small lake with plenty of wildlife.  Between Jackson and Vicksburg with lots of history around the area to explore.  Beyond the small on-site store, shopping not to far down I-20 in either direction, and a couple of smaller stores in Edwards.  We gave this campground 9 out of 10 and that's just because we haven't found "paradise" yet.  Not a "Passport" site" but that didn't matter with the weekly rates. We highly recommend this RV campground. 

(Note: We use RV Park Reviews. Traveling in a 22' Travel Trailer. All electric 30 amp or more unless otherwise noted).