Onwards to Illinois



Stone Mill Meadow Farm

We had a very full day making our way from Wentzville, Missouri where we stayed last night, to Collinsville, Illinois. We first head south along along very scenic Highways Z and F, to Daniel Boone's home near Defiance, Missouri. The area is lined with picturesque barns and and historic homes, and this time of the year, some very colorful trees. Before we get to Boone's old homestead, we pass by the historic Stone Mill Meadow Farm. Absolutely gorgeous, very historic, and is for sale. Now, if I was looking to move, if I was willing to give up my lake view and wonderful neighbors, if I had 3 million dollars to purchase the property and probably another million to keep it maintained, I just might have to look at this. But, all those ifs being a negative, we move on.


Daniel Boone home near Defiance, MO

 A few more miles down the road, we land at the Historic Daniel Boone Home and Boonesfield Village. A registered National Historic Site, the Boone Home, nearly 200 years old, is large even by today's standards. It rises four stories with limestone walls 2 ½ feet thick and a kitchen in what most would consider would be the basement. The historic home overlooks the Boonesfield Village which is comprised of over a dozen 19th century buildings including the Old Peace Chapel, grist mill, schoolhouse, several homes, a carpenter’s shop, an more. Each building has been moved to the site from within 50 miles of the local area. The buildings offer visitors a glimpse into life as a frontiersman and the chance to witness the hard work and dedication these men and women possessed. I most definetely need to expand my short summary of Daniel Boone, who is more often associated with Kentucky, into his family and life in Missouri.

Kirkwood Depot

Then, to St. Louis, where we do a short allignment of Route 66 that we've never traveled before, exiting off of US Highway 64 at Frontenac and heading south to Sunset Hills. This allignment is almost completely residential until reaching Kirkwood, Missouri, which provides a couple of glimpses of history including its old depot, city hall, and Spencer's Grill.

Then eastward to Jefferson Barracks, a U.S. Army post from 1826 to 1946. Soldiers of this very large installation served the Mexican-American War, the Civil War, Indian Campaigns, Spanish-American War, Philippine War, and both World Wars. After Jefferson Barracks was decommissioned, portions of the grounds were sold off and visitors today can still see these many buildings being used for housing and business purposes. Some of the grounds were held, however, housing the very large Jefferson Barracks National Cemetery, a National Guard Base and the Verterans Administration hospital. The rest of the old property is now the Jefferson Barracks and Sylvan Springs County Parks.
 

Jefferson Barracks National Cemetery

We began our tour at the Jefferson Barracks National Cemetery, one of the oldest interment sites of the Department of Veteran Affairs, established in 1866. Containing some 20,000 gravesites, the cemetery continutes to accept the remains of soldiers today. Acre after acre of white stone marked hills both sadden my heart, as well as making it swell with pride. We then move past the active installation of the National Guard, which features a number of historic buildings and drive through the park, where yet more buildings can be seen, some of which feature museums. Definitely have to get a story up on the barracks, as it is not only filled with history, but is also said to be haunted by a number of ghosts.

Gateway Arch From across the River

Then we're off to downtown St. Louis to take a ride up the Gateway Arch and visit the Museum of Westward Expansion. Packed like large sardines into a little pod, five of us make our way up to the top of the 630 foot arch in about four minutes. Well worth the trip for the great photo opportunities. Then back down the tram to visit the museum, which features westward expansion from Lewis and Clark, to explorers, Native Americans, hunters, and miners. This was a great stop. Then across the Mississippi River we go, for photos of the Gateway Geyser and more pictures of the St Louis Arch.
 

Monks Mound at Cahokia Mounds

On down the road, we make our way to Cahokia Mounds, the largest archeological site north of Mexico. Best known for large, man-made earthen structures, the city of Cahokia was inhabited from about A.D. 700 to 1400. Built by ancient peoples known as the Mound Builders, Cahokia's original population was thought to have been only about 1,000 until about the 11th century when it expanded to tens of thousands.

Catsup bottle at Collinsville

One last stop before we call it a day. Must have a picture of the world's largest catsup bottle in Collinsville, Illinois. Once the home of multiple coal mines, Collinsville is now a busy bedroom community of St. Louis, but one of its most popular features is the large catsup bottle. This unique 170 ft. tall water tower was built in 1949 for the G.S. Suppiger catsup bottling plant - bottlers of Brooks old original rich & tangy catsup.

Now, that, was busy day.

To see many more pictures of our journey, visit our Legends Fan Page album HERE. (You don't have to be a Facebook member, to look at the pics.

Tomorrow, we start up Illinois Route 66 to Chicago.

Northeast Missouri

Ok, back on track, we did cover more miles today -- like 150, but still 40 miles from St. Louis. OMG, if we don't kick it in the butt, this thang is gonna take a month. First, we finished up just the last little bit of the Santa Fe Trail, visting Old Franklin and Boone's Lick.

Here lies Old Franklin, Missouri

Just north of the Missouri River beyond Boonville, Missouri, Old Franklin was the town where William Becknell, the "Father of the Santa Fe Trail" and his party started out for Santa Fe, New Mexico in 1821. Unfortunately, the entire town was washed away by flooding of the Missouri River in 1927. Still, it was a nostalgic stop, just looking at the terrain and river, wondering about those early Santa Fe Trail traders, as well as thinking about Lewis and Clark who had also been there almost two decades previous.

Boone's Lick State Historic Site

Next, we move along some 10 miles to Boone's Lick State Historic Site. Here, Lewis and Clark also passed, reporting the presence of many saltwater springs. Just a couple of years later, sons of famous frontiersman Daniel Boone, formed a partnership with James and Jesse Morrison in 1805 to produce salt. It was then shipped by keelboat on the Missouri River to St. Louis, Missouri. Salt production continued here until about 1833. This site, too, was a destination for pioneers heaing west.

We then head northeast to Centralia, Missouri, the site of the Centralia Massacre during the Civil War. On September 27, 1864, 22 unarmed Union soldiers returning home on leave were pulled from a train and executed by Confederate bushwhackers under "Bloody Bill" Anderson. A Union force pursuing the guerrillas was ambushed, and about 150 were killed, many of whom were tortured and executed, and afterwards, their bodies mutilated.

A mural depicts the Centralia Massacre

I had long wanted to know more about this particular Civil War battle and was pleased when I found a reference in the official 2010 Missouri Travel Guide to Centralia's "Gray Ghost Trail Civil War Markers." So, we set aside some time to follow the trail, but, in the end, spent more time trying to find it than driving it.

Centralia Battlefield

Starting out at the town square, there is an interpretive sign which indicates four stops on this driving tour. The interpretive sign was very informative about the sites; but, it wasn't directionally correct -- with north being north, etc. We were confused so we went to the first stop -- the Centralia Historical Society Museum. We were looking forward to the museum and getting map of the trail. Alas, the museum was closed. I only found out with this writing that the museum is only open on Wednesday and Sunday afternoons from 2:00 to 4:00 p.m., though there was no indication of hours at the museum -- only a closed sign. And, no maps. Disappointed, we head back to the square in search of the Chamber of Commerce, which we find also has very strange hours, despite the city's population of nearly 4,000. Nevertheless, we get there during their small window of being open - 10:30-1:00. When someone comes to help me and I ask about the Gray Ghost Trail, she has no idea what I'm talking about. Isn't it the Chamber that promotes these things to the State of Missouri Tourism Guide? In the end, she hands me a bad map of how to get to the battlefield, tells me that "it's just a field with a coupla markers" with a bewildered look on her face, and sends me next door to the "foundation." So, I head next door and ask the kind ladies the same question. They also look just as confused as to why I'm there. Come to find out, this is an endowment foundation, whose leader, Jack Chance, just happens to be an area Civil War expert. I finally find my answers from this kind gentleman, but, am even more confused as to why I was sent here to waste his time. Mr. Chance let me know there was no such thing as a trail map and agreed when I complained about the interpretive marker in the square being confusing. In any event, the "Gray Ghost Trail" is virtually non existent and should not be listed in Missouri's Tourism guide. I am constantly amazed about various city's attempts at attracting tourists. In the end, we visited the Centralia Battlefield, which you will, for sure, read about later.

Then, we're off to meet a long time reader of our newsletter and new friend on Facebook. We have a great lunch in Mexico, Missouri before visting their home, which is housed in an old barn. Way cool! Thank you Kay and Bill Weldon.

Alas, it is time to head back towards the awful interstate on our trek to St. Louis. Tomorrow is a day filled with activities.

Arcadia residents rally to fight Round Barn-obscuring sign

We interrupt this program to bring you a Route 66 Alert!!

The round barn in Arcadia, Oklahoma is the most photographed site on Route 66 and now a large billboard and its framework will obstruct a portion of the barn from photographers, not to mention, blighting this quaint little community with its business agenda. Local townspeople are asking the people of Oklahoma to help defend the Round Barn, help with legal advice, and attend the Town Council meeting.

Photo courtesy Mark Schlachtenhaufen, the Edmund Sun. 

Missouri-Illinois-Iowa

Our fall trip this year takes us trailin' a bit on the Santa Fe Trail from Marshall, Missouri to Franklin, before heading to St. Louis and traveling Route 66 to Chicago. From there, we'll head back west and travel back down the Mississippi River a ways through Iowa.



Bothwell Lodge north of Sedalia, Missouri

Our first day, in typical Legends fashion, we make it only 75 miles. This could be a long journey. Our first stop -- just north of Sedalia, Missouri is the Bothwell Lodge State Historic Site. Sitting atop a 120-foot bluff, this castle-like home was constructed between 1897 and 1928 for a prominent Sedalia lawyer, John Homer Bothwell. Bothwell was active in local politics, represented Pettis County for eight years in the Missouri General Assembly, and unsuccessfully ran for governor in 1904. His influence helped to make Sedalia the permanent home for the Missouri State Fair. Built on top three natural caves using native stone, the 12,000 square foot, multi-level lodge has 31 rooms that can be toured today.


Blackwater, Missouri

Next, we're off to the tiny quaint little town of Blackwater, Missouri. Located just three miles north of I-70, exit 89 in Missouri. Alas, I have to say that until very recently I had not heard of Blackwater when I received a phone call from Gerald Cunningham. Originally from Marshall, Missouri, Gerald and his wife, Connie, established the Bucksnort Trading Company in Blackwater four years ago. Then, after he bought my book, Great American Bars and Saloons, he got a hankerin' to establish an old-fashioned saloon right there in Blackwater. 


Bucksnort Saloon, Blackwater, Missouri

Starting on it in early 2010, the Bucksnort Saloon is now open for business. A family friendly saloon, visitors can hear  Robert Ault, one of the best ragtime piano players in the country, delight you with tunes; play Faro, or belly up to the bar for a cream soda or sassparilla on weekends. We had a great time visiting with Gerald and Connie Cunningham, meeting Bob Ault, the piano playing wonder, and visiting with Blackwater's city clerk, painter of the murals in town, and local historian -- Bonnie Rapp. You'll be hearing alot more about this place on our Saloon Museums page soon. 

Dave Alexander; Bonnie Rapp, Gerald Cunningham


Blackwater is a friendly little town with less than 200 souls that has done a very good job of restoring its historic buildings and promoting the village as a travel destination. Numerous historic buildings have been restored including the depot, the Iron Horse Hotel, where you can still get a room and a meal; the old caboose, the telephone building, which now serves as a museum, and many others. Founded in 1887 as a coal and water stop for the Missouri Pacific Railroad, Blackwater has lots of history to share. Be sure to get off the interstate to take the short winding and scenic roads to the historic town which is lined with antique and specialty shops. After a great burger at the Back Roads Grill in Blackwater, we're off again to Arrow Rock, Missouri.



Arrow Rock, Missouri

Situated on a high bluff over the Missouri River, this site has long been a significant landmark for Native Americans, explorers, and early westward travelers. Arrow Rock first appeared on a French map as “pierre a fleche,” literally translated as “rock of arrows” in 1732. In the 1820s, the earliest travelers on what became the Santa Fe Trail crossed the river on the Arrow Rock ferry and filled their water barrels with fresh water at “the Big Spring” before heading west. In 1829, the town of Arrow Rock was founded, which soon boasted a number of prominent people including  Dr. John Sappington of quinine fame; George Caleb Bingham, Missouri's preeminent artist of the mid-1800s; and three future 19th Century Missouri governors. 

By the time the Civil War began, Arrow Rock boasted 1,000 people. Afterwards, the town began a decline as steamboats and river commerce gave way to railroads that bypassed the town. In 1963, the entire town was designated a National Historic Landmark because of its association with the Westward Expansion. Called home to about 75 people today, the village boasts several signficant historic properties including the J.P. Sites Gun Shop, dating back to 1830; the 1834 Huston Tavern, the old courthouse, a town doctor's home, a stone jail and numerous other historic buildings. 


Boonville, Missouri

Then we're off to Boonville, Missouri, our last stop of the day. Another historic city on the Missouri River, Boonville got its start in the early 1800's when Daniel Boone's sons, Nathan and Daniel Morgan, came upon a salt lick in present day Howard County, just across the river. Recognizing the value of salt for pioneers, the Boone brothers settled and opened shop, thus the original Boone’s Lick or Boonslick name. The town was formally platted in 1817 and prospered in the late 1820’s. Throughout the 1820’s and 30’s, it was home to river trade and anoter jumping-off point for the Santa Fe Trail. The development of the railroad and the start of the Civil War dramatically changed Boonville. Because of its prime location on the river, Boonville was sought after by both the Confederates and the Union armies. Boonville saw two Civil War battles. Tday, it is called home to over 8,000 people and features more than 400 historic properties on the National Register.
    

Tomorrow, we head east again. Stay tuned for our daily travels and full articles when we return home..

Heroes Are Not Always Politically Correct

(Note: This blog post is obviously just an opinion, and you are Free to disagree. Isn't it wonderful we have that Freedom?.- Dave A.)

Sometimes I have to shake my head and wonder at what point our American history became such a divisive issue that it creates villains out of heroes for the sake of political correctness. Kathy started Legends Of America back in 2003, and over the years she has learned all too well how some stories can cause a ruckus. Whether it be Billy the Kid or a fanciful ghost story, there are many passionate voices out there that can get their feathers ruffled in a hurry. A good example of this can be found on our Facebook page, especially when we feature a story on an American President.

We post daily stories on Facebook, ranging from early America, the Old West to Route 66. And each week we feature a "Good Guy". This week I posted Kathy's updated article from Hartwell James' 1899 book "Military Heroes of the United States" on President Zachary Taylor. I was intrigued to see the comments that soon came, and it was a particular statement that caught my eye and weighed on my mind enough to blog about it. The statement was, in part, "Taylor won fame as an Indian fighter.....Let's get real about our former Presidents. Many of them were racist and most of them were bigots."

Now, I realize that not everyone will consider Zach a good guy. Yes, he owned slaves. Yes, he fought Native Americans. He also fought with honor against Mexico and played a key role in the eventual statehood of California. So why was it so bad for us to do a "Good Guy" post on a former American President, someone who helped shape the Great Nation we live in, and recognize him for his accomplishments?

That led me to my ultimate question. How far do we go for the sake of Political Correctness? Let's say for instance you are an American Citizen of Hispanic decent. Does the fact that the United States fought and won territories from Mexico mean that we should give California back? What if you are of Native American decent? Yes, I agree, the United States did many bad things to people that deserved better. Do you honestly believe United States citizens, back in the 1800's, should have given up and turned the country back over to the various Native American tribes? Would you still have the freedom you have today? Would you even be here?

I don't mean to pick on this particular comment, as we have had similar comments on other posts dealing with our Founding Fathers. Whether you agree or disagree on a specific President's policies doesn't change the fact that each and every President of these United States have been heroic in some way that helped make us into what we are; the leader of the Free World. And despite being "politically incorrect", in the end they did what's right...kept freedom at the core of our Nations foundation. Hell, we even fought with ourselves for that belief in freedom during the Civil War. And yes, President Zachary Taylor, a slave owner, had a hand in turning America away from Slavery "before" the Civil War.

I would go as far to say that if it weren't for Good Guys being politically "incorrect" at times, we would not have grown as a nation, nor have the level of civility throughout the world we have today. The feisty spirit in us that declared our Independence from the British, fought the Native Americans and Mexicans to expand our territories, defended freedom in two World Wars..all of the history, good and bad, resulting in the growth of a Nation that others around the World look up to.

My point is this... It depends which side of history you're on as to which Heroes you celebrate, and thankfully they are not always politically correct. For a Hero is simply someone who furthered their cause with strong conviction and extraordinary measures. I, for one, am an American. I celebrate American Heroes. Including the politically incorrect President and Distinguished General, Zachary Taylor.