The Heart of the Texas Forts Trail

Setting up Abilene as a home base for a couple of days was a good idea, as we had a lot to see in Central Texas on day 5 of our Texas forts tour. We got an early start that morning and headed south on Buffalo Gap road. Buffalo Gap is a small town about 13 miles South West of Abilene founded in 1857. Once a center for Buffalo hunters, you can enjoy the towns Historic Village which still has the original 1879 sandstone jail and courthouse. Plan ahead and be there during normal touring hours though, as we were a bit early and had to take in the sites from outside the fence.

We left there and started back toward highway 83, then through Ballinger, home to "The Cross", a 100 feet tall 50 ton monument that can be scene from miles outside of town. Built in 1993, The Cross is known for it's spectacular views at sunset and is something you won't miss, even if your just driving by.

From Ballinger we continued south on 83 to Paint Rock, where just outside of town you can tour hundreds of Indian Pictographs along a rock bluff overlooking an Indian camp ground. Most of them are thought to be up to 500 years old and maybe even older, and some pottery found at the site has been dated to 1000 years old. Access is possible most days, but preferably by appointment. This is another stop you should plan ahead for, and if you happen to be in the area at the time, go during an Equinox when solar markers appear and are thought to show the ascension of a spirit to the "Happy Hunting Ground". [Note: we didn't plan ahead, and therefore we didn't get to see the rocks this trip :( ]

After Paint Rock, and through Eden, we come to Menard, where in 1757 Spanish authorities built Presidio San Luis de Las Amarillas to protect nearby Mission Santa Cruz de San Saba from Native American raids. This was an interesting stop not only for the history, but for the quirkiness of where it is. When you pull into the site of the Presidio you're pulling into a golf course, complete with a tee box just outside one of the ruins remaining stone windows. Being history buffs we were a bit appalled at the thought that a hacker on the golf course could slice into the ruins, but I guess not everyone see's history the way we do.

Heading west on highway 190 just over 20 miles from Menard is Fort McKavett State Historic Site. Etablished in 1852, the post housed companies of each of the four regiments of Buffalo Soldiers formed after the Civil War. Today you can tour several buildings as the grounds still have 16 historic structures, including the post, headquarters and schoolhouse.

Back onto 190, then north on highway 277, we go through San Angelo, home of Fort Concho. Besides touring the Fort, San Angelo has a lot to do for just about anyone, including a scenic River Walk, historic downtown and even Miss Hattie's Bordello Museum, and early 1900's brothel that operated until 1946 when Texas Rangers finally shut it down. San Angelo also offers a look at the stars in the nations fourth largest university planetarium at Angelo State.

Our final stop on day 5 was Fort Chadbourne between San Angelo and Abilene on 277. The fort is on private land but open to the public and accepting donations for several ongoing projects, including a planned new visitors center adn restoration of the Butterfield Stage Stop. Established in 1852, the fort protected settlers moving through Indian territory. It was a good stop to end our long day as we headed back to the hotel to rest up for our final Texas Fort Trail push.

Day 6 - Abilene to Pampa (Wrapping up the Texas Forts Trail)

Time didn't allow us to do the entire Texas Forts Trail, but we did get a chance to have some fun in Abilene before heading north to the Panhandle. Abilene is home to Frontier Texas, a fantastic museum near downtown that welcomes visitors to experience the sights and sounds of frontier life from 1780 to 1880 through animated video characters. These holographs give you a since of what life was really like and we both felt moved by the stories told. A must stop for the old west adventurer, make sure you see Frontier Texas if you're anywhere near Abilene.

Moving north on the Texas Forts Trail on Farm Market 600 we come to Fort Phantom Hill, another fort on private land, but this one not kept up as well as Fort Chadbourne. Several of the signs in front of old ruins are gone, and none of the buildings remain in tact, but it's still a good stop to see some history. This federal post from 1851 to 1854 experienced only peaceful encounters with Plains Indians during it's brief duty, and later served as a stop on the Butterfield Overland Mail route as a sub-post to Fort Griffin.

Texas Forts now out of our system, we made our way on a long journey north to the Panhandle, wrapping up our day with a final stop at Caprock Canyons State Park. Near Turkey Texas, home of western icon Bob Wills, the canyon offered a beautiful contrast to the rugged Texas plains we had experienced as the Sun began to set on the red canyon walls. If you're a camper or RV'er, this is a good place to spend a couple of days hiking and taking in the scenery.

With the sun rapidly leaving us, we move north to Pampa Texas on highway 70 to spend time with family at "Fort Alexander." Thanks for the vittles mom and dad, and Happy Thanksgiving to all.