Shakespeare and the New Mexico Border

We're nearing the end of the trip and plan to see what we can of another great old ghost town - Shakespeare, before making our way back eastward along the New Mexico border to El Paso.

We head southwest from Silver City, knowing that we won't be able to tour Shakespeare, as they are only open designated weekends and by appointment. We, of course, didn't make an appointment, because we never know exactly where we're going to be at any given time. But, I had read that this privately owned ghost town could be seen from the road and was determined to at least get a glimpse of it. As we drive up to the gate we see the expected sign designating that it is closed and giving more information on visiting. However, there is also a very nice lady going into the gate that we get to visiting with. Helen Foster is writing a book about Janaloo Hill, the owner of Shakespeare before she died a short time ago. Her husband, Manny Hough, continues to preserve the Shakespeare and runs a working ranch. A very nice lady, I asked if it was ok to walk along the fence line and take some photos of the old place. When she indicated that would be ok, I headed up the hill for a better view and some photo opportunities. Next thing we know, she's running up from the house, waving her arms. Manny has decided we can visit after all. What a great surprise. We were not only given the opportunity to visit with Manny and find out more of Helen's work as a writer, but were also allowed to tour all of the buildings. There is just nothing better than having a ghost town to yourself. No waiting for people to get out of the way for pictures, lots of answers to questions, and an all around great time!!

That was a wonderful opportunity and we are so grateful to Manny and Helen for providing this wonderful opportunity. See more about Shakespeare HERE!

Next we head west to Steins, New Mexico, another preserved ghost town. Though it appears that this place may be "open" sometimes, it was shut down hard on our visit. Fenced in and filled with weeds and old vehicles, even its sign was fading. Perhaps it's no longer open at all. It was very hard to tell, but at any rate, got off some photos and we were on the road again. Heading due south along the Arizona border, we then turn eastward on New Mexico Highway 9 to make our way to El Paso. A very lonely stretch of road.

We soon run into another ghost town, this one very sad and lonely -- Hachita. An old railroad town that supported some of the nearby mines, it was once in the midst of Pancho Villa territory. Today, there are a few remaining residents, lots of abandoned buildings, and no open businesses.

As we continue on, it is apparent that we are close to the border, as the only vehicles we pass on this lonely road are Border Patrol SUV's and every few miles or so, we spy tall extended things with little platforms at the top, that apparently allow them to see the area around the border. For a while, we chase the white dot in the sky, as Dave has decided it is most certainly a UFO. Later, he finds out it some type of "super-sonic" surveillance system utilized by the border patrol.

We eventually wind up at Pancho Villa State Park and the site of U.S. Military post, Camp Furlong in Columbus, New Mexico.

Done for the day, we head on into El Paso and hotel. Tomorrow, it's back to Kansas City and the cold, cold, cold.

Silver City Mining Adventures

Next day, we decide to take it a little easy - not covering hundreds of miles and numerous ghost towns -- just two, Mogollon and Pinos Altos, both easy drives from Silver City. In fact we weren't even sure we would be traveling as the weather said Silver City was supposed to get 6-8" of snow. It didn't. Getting around slowly though, we finally head out to Mogollon, one of New Mexico’s premier ghost towns. It's just about 70 miles northwest of Silver City, the sun is shining bright, and it should be an easy trip. Right?

Well, not when ole' Kathy is around - always got to have at least one adventure on my trips to tell you about. Actually, it was easy for the first hour, I'm driving, good roads, breeze through Glenwood looking for our turn to take us into the Mogollon Mountains. Still easy for a couple of miles, then we start to climb. And, viola, we find snow and ice, especially on the shady side of the mountain. Hmmm, guess there was something to those signs we ignored that said "steep grade," "sharp turns," and "night travel discouraged." Never one to back off a steep road or a little snow, especially when navigating in an SUV, forward we go. The road rises some 2,500 feet, before dropping back down about 1,200 feet to Mogollon, all in the space of nine miles. It is narrow and twisting, with solid rock straight up one side for hundreds of feet and straight down an equal or greater distance on the other side.

Though poor Dave is clinging to console and his backside is puckering (his words,) I'm ok. Well, at least until I meet someone coming down that road on an extremely narrow stretch of gravel. Hmmm, what is that rule when you meet someone on a narrow mountain road -- is it the person going up or the person coming down that's supposed to back up. Totally escapes me. Maybe that's why those people were glaring at me when they stopped and I passed them on the side. Backing up is just simply not an option for me. I have trouble with that in my driveway. Ok, now, I am scared as I know my wheels are just inches from the dropping cliff to the left, and my right rear view mirror narrowly misses colliding with theirs. Suffering more dirty looks, we’re off again. No harm done, right? Shake it off - there's some beautiful views! Dave is as white as a sheet.

Now, it's a February weekday. There is absolutely no one else going up to this remote ghost town and only 15 residents who live there, so what are the odds, that five minutes later, we meet another vehicle coming down the mountain. Still can't remember that rule, but this time, I see opportunity, pull off, wait and wave as the car passes on down the mountain.

When we finally reach Mogollon, it is everything they said it would be -- filled with historic buildings and most of the snow has melted. The one good thing about ghost towning in the winter, is there aren't a bunch of people standing in front of the buildings I want to take pictures of. Didn't see nary a soul except for one stray dog and a lonely carpenter working on a house.

It was great, at least until, I wanted to make another steep trek up a two mile stretch to the cemetery. After about five minutes of rocking and bumping around, Dave wasn't having any more of that, so we turned around.

Going down was easy, of course. Back to Silver City, we then make our way to Pinos Altos. Another historic mining town, it still provides a number of historic buildings to look at, but this is no ghost town anymore. Just six miles north of Silver City, it appears to be more of a quaint little suburb, as new construction, luxury cabins, and resorts dot the terrain.

That's all - easy peasy day. Next mission, the best steakhouse in Silver City. Oops, me thinks we missed that opportunity back in Texas.

Ghost Towns in the Desert Snow

We are worried as we set out this morning -- Tucson, Arizona got inches of snow dumped on it last night and here in Socorro County, everything is laced with ice crystals. The storm from Arizona is supposed to move eastward, predicting to dump 6-10 inches on Silver City, New Mexico, our final destination for the day. We're going to be traveling some mountain roads and is this unpredictable storm going to put a damper on our next few days of travel? Well, we're here, we have coats, water, food and a 4-wheel drive jeep -- let's just see what happens.

As we venture south from Socorro, the landscape is absolutely beautiful! Cactuses glitter in the bright sun, dripping as the temperature rises. As the black highway heats up under, a misty cloud forms over it. We've started early and very glad of it, because all the ice and dusting of snow is entirely gone by 11:00 a.m. There is no wind and the sun is proving that this will be a wonderful day.

We soon venture off the highway, heading westward on a stretch of the Geronimo Trail Scenic Byway to the small agricultural communities of Placita and Monticello. We are awe inspired as we reach Monticello Canyon and view the small town of Placita (meaning Little Plaza), with its snow covered fields and mountain back drop. The community, dating back to the 1840's still boasts its 1916 San Lorenzo Catholic Church and several old homes.

Just two more miles down the road we come to Monticello, a farming and ranching community dating back to 1856. The town was built in a square to protect residents from Apache attacks. Ironically, it later became the headquarters for the Southern Apache Agency before a post was established at nearby Ojo Caliente in 1874. This picturesque small community continues to sport its 1867 San Ignacio Catholic Church, the ruins of an old school that burned years ago, and a number of homes, some still lived in, and others that are succumbing to nature's elements.

Backtracking just a bit, we next head for more ghost towns, starting with 1880 mining town of Winston, which was once called home to about 3,000 people. The old settlement provides a number of photo opportunities in its old business buildings and homes. About three miles down the road is another mining community - Chloride. This ghost town has seen much restoration in the last several years and its museum was open for us to learn more of its history.

We then try to take a short cut over a forest road so that we don't have to backtrack once again. Alas, this is not a good idea, as the snow covered road is unpaved, rutted, and narrow. Ok, backtrack we do, heading south again on I-25 through Truth or Consequences before getting off the interstate once again, headed for, yes, you guessed it -- more ghost towns.

Heading westward on NM-152, we soon arrive at Hillsboro, another mining community born in 1877. Though not a ghost town today, it displays lots of interesting historic buildings. Another 9 ½ miles down the road, we almost miss the turnoff to Kingston and do a quick U-turn to this old 1882 mining town. Now, at one time this place was allegedly one of the largest and wildest towns in New Mexico Territory, with some 7,000 people. Hmmmm, sure can't tell it today -- only a old buildings and a cemetery, but still worth the stop.

We take a brief pause to take pics of the open pit Santa Rita Copper Mine and feeling pretty DONE for the day, head on over to Silver City. Nope! Change of plans when I spy the sign for Fort Bayard. Ok, one last stop as we make a quick tour through the old fort grounds. Lots of buildings left, but like Fort Stanton, is another sad case of deterioration. The site now serves as a New Mexico State Hospital.

Ok, finally really done, find the hotel and "die." It's been a very long day.

Ghost Towns and the Wild Wild West

Ahh, the day I have been anxiously awaiting - a visit to Lincoln, New Mexico, with all its history of the Lincoln County War, Billy the Kid, Pat Garrett, and more. We take off from Ruidoso - it's a cold and windy morning, not exactly what I was hoping for in southern New Mexico, but that's not about to stop us. Put on the coat, pull on the gloves, get out the camera and we're off. Whatever it is, it's still better than Kansas City, where the weather is so bad, the airport is shut down.

A walk down Lincoln, New Mexico's Main Street is a step back into the Wild Wild West. It was here that such men as Billy the Kid escaped from jail, killing two deputies, after Pat Garrett had captured him; here, that Indians, Mexican American settlers, gunfighters and corrupt politicians made themselves known; it was in this small settlement that the violent Lincoln County War erupted, which resulted in the deaths of 19 men and made Billy the Kid a legend.

From Lincoln, we head on down the road to Fort Stanton, one more of the many forts established to fight the fierce Apache Indians. From here, that Kit Carson was tasked with rounding up both the Apache and the Navajo Indians and forcing them on to the reservation at the Bosque Redondo Reservation at Fort Sumner. Over the years, the fort underwent a number of uses after it was decommissioned in 1896, becoming a tuberculosis hospital, a minimum security corrections facility, and today, a drug rehabilitation center. Today, the old fort grounds display a number of buildings; however, most are in serious disrepair. Much of the area is off-limits to the public and there are no buildings that can be toured. There is; however, a museum and visitor's center, but the hours are irregular.

Rolling on, we pass by the Smokey Bear Historical Park in Capitan, New New Mexico. Did you know that Smokey Bear was a real bear? In 1950 a real baby bear became the live “Smokey” when he was rescued from certain death by firefighters in a devastating blaze in New Mexico's Lincoln National Forest. It was this tiny bear that spawned the Smokey Bear Campaign, the longest running public service campaign in U.S. history.

But, we are destined for ghost towns in the Jicarilla Mountains northwest of Carrizozo. First stop -- White Oaks, a town that became known as the liveliest town in New Mexico Territory after gold was discovered here in 1879. In no time, the population boomed as miners crawled the hills and businessmen established saloons, stores, and offices. Billy Wilson, one of Billy the Kid's buddies lived here for a time and it was here that Pat Garrett was when the "Kid" escaped from the Lincoln County Jail, leaving behind two dead deputies. Today, this formerly thriving town is but a shell of its former self, providing a vivid peek at its past through its numerous old buildings.

The pavement ends as we head northeast out of White Oaks in search of another old settlement called Jicarilla. This very small town has been called home to miners for more than 150 years. Though its few buildings are now abandoned, there is still said to be plenty of gold in the area.

Next, this unpaved road takes us to the old railroad and ranching community of Ancho. This once bustling town has been reduced to a number of tumbling homes and businesses after being bypassed by the highway. Great stop and lots of photo opportunities.
And, we're not done yet! Returning south to Carrizozo, we then head westward through the lava fields, to Socorro County and the old mining towns of Kelly and Magdalena. Of Kelly, there is very little left and Magdalena is not a ghost town, but it was still a fun drive.

As you can imagine, by this time, we're beat and head to a hotel in Socorro, resting up for yet another day on the road.

Aliens and Outlaws

Day 2 we head north once again determined to see an alien in Roswell and hopefully "bump" into the ghost of Billy the Kid at Fort Sumner. Well, all kinds of "alien" type items we did see in Roswell, especially at the UFO Museum and Research Center. Got the whole history, lots of pictures, and displays. Very interesting stuff. Plus, Dave was determined to bring home an "alien" so we poked our heads into several of the touristy souvenir shops finding just the right one. Now, those places I can only describe as "quirky," but alien in hand, we set out on a more familiar trail -- that of the Old West.

We roll through the next 84 miles barely seeing a soul through the desert plains, our only company, a few scattered cows and a brief peek at a few fleeing antelope. One lonely adobe house sits abandoned on these quiet plains. How long has it been since this quiet little place heard laughter and voices within its walls? Finally, we reach the village of Fort Sumner, population of about 1250 - friendly folks and a great hamburger at Fred's Lounge.

At a visit to the Billy the Kid Museum, history comes to life with displays of Billy the Kid's rifle, chaps, spurs and original Wanted Poster, as well as military displays, saddles, vintage photographs, antique furnishings, and old Model-T's.

Now, on to Billy the Kid's gravesite and the Fort Sumner State Monument. At the old cemetery, we see Billy's grave, along with his pals Tom O'Folliard and Charlie Bowdre. Poor Billy's original grave stone has been stolen twice, so the gravesite sits behind an iron cage. Who would do that? Steal a grave marker? But, they got it back and the original marker is also in the "cage," further imprisoned within yet more iron.

Of the Fort Sumner State Monument, we learn more of the Navajo's Long Walk to the Bosque Redondo Reservation. It was to "guard" these Indians, that Fort Sumner was built in 1862. However, the reservation was soon hailed as a miserable failure --the victim of poor planning, disease, crop infestation, and poor conditions for agriculture. The Navajo were finally acknowledged sovereignty in the historic Treaty of 1868 and allowed to returned to their land along the Arizona-New Mexico border.

In 1870, the old Fort Sumner buildings were sold to Lucien B. Maxwell, the former owner of the largest land grant in U.S. History. Maxwell relocated his family from northeast New Mexico and refurbished the buildings into proper housing. Lucien Maxwell soon turned over his affairs to his son Peter and passed away a few years later. When Billy the Kid arrived on the scene, Peter Maxwell and Billy became friends. On July 14, 1881, Sheriff Pat Garrett found Billy the Kid in a bedroom of the Maxwell home and ended the life of the teenage outlaw.

Though all of the original buildings of the fort, as well as Maxwell's home, are long since gone, the site provides a museum and an interpretive trail which provide information about the tragic history of the site.

We're off again, destined for Ruidosa. Along the way, I am pleasantly surprised when we run into the ghost town of Yeso that I was unaware was on our route. Though we saw not a single soul, amazingly, there is still an operating post office in this abandoned agricultural community. Here, there are numerous homes and businesses standing in various stages of collapse.

As our journey turns southward, we bump into yet another ghost town -- Duran. Though this small village continues to be called home to several residents, it's obviously seen better days, as every business is closed and numerous homes are abandoned.

Finally, we reach Ruiodosa and our hotel. Another delightful day!